changing from oo to N

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wattalan
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changing from oo to N

#1

Post by wattalan » Tue Dec 03, 2019 8:50 pm

hello all
I'm after some advice i have a oo layout at the moment and also do a lot of automatic uncoupling which works fine .
i would like a lot more running space so my idea was to go n gauge
but i have no ideas on what n gauge is like for automatic uncoupling
is n gauge easy to use and reliable what type of track is best fine scale or code 80
ant help would be aprecoatrd before i make a decision
thanks Alan
using Digikeijs dr5000
using Train Controller for Trains and Icar for running cars etc

Paul-H
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Re: changing from oo to N

#2

Post by Paul-H » Tue Dec 03, 2019 9:48 pm

Hi

N can be just as reliable as any other gauge, everything does need to be nice and clean as their lack of weight can give issues in electrical contact if everything is not clean and well laid.

Auto coupling, do you mean drive over a magnet to uncoupler or some sort of electronic uncoupler built into the loco

For magnetic there are a number of options but the easiest is to use Dapols Easy Shunt couplers, not cheap but very reliable, these work with magnets set into or under the track.

As for track go with code 55 it's much stronger than 80 and looks much better

I use the Easy Shunts myself.

Paul

wattalan
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Re: changing from oo to N

#3

Post by wattalan » Wed Dec 04, 2019 7:52 am

thanks for the info
yes i use kadeee electromagnets and kadee couplings for the uncoupling

so how often do you have to clean your track and locos

one important question what voltage is n scale
thanks Allan
using Digikeijs dr5000
using Train Controller for Trains and Icar for running cars etc

Paul-H
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Re: changing from oo to N

#4

Post by Paul-H » Wed Dec 04, 2019 9:16 am

To be honest I went down the use of a graphite pencil route some time ago and that had a fantastic effect on running reliability so I don't realy do much cleaning these days.

As for voltage N needs the same as 00 do you existing controllers will work fine.

Paul

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Steve M
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Re: changing from oo to N

#5

Post by Steve M » Wed Dec 04, 2019 9:27 am

Cleaning regime should be similar to OO but what you must include is hoovering up and dust or detritus after using a track rubber as the slightest speck of dust will stop things. As usual a wipe over with IPA will always help.
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Paul-H
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Re: changing from oo to N

#6

Post by Paul-H » Wed Dec 04, 2019 12:53 pm

I used to be quite paranoid about track cleaning but since being introduced to the wonders of a 9B Graphite Pencil all I do is just the occasional quick vac and occasional re application of graphite

These are the ones I use

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LYRA-Graphit ... 1786953340

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RogerB
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Re: changing from oo to N

#7

Post by RogerB » Wed Dec 04, 2019 1:22 pm

I have heard about [and seen a video on] using graphite sticks to improve and maintain electrical conductivity. It is imperative, as I'm sure you know, to apply the graphite to already scrupulously clean track. I understand that you then do not need to IPA the track so frequently. I have not used graphite - yet. R-
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Paul-H
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Re: changing from oo to N

#8

Post by Paul-H » Wed Dec 04, 2019 6:55 pm

It's very easy, after cleaning and hoovering the track you just rub the pencil over the tracks, with power off as the pencil is conductive, then as you run your locos they spread the graphite around your layout.

It does not take much to make a vast improvement.

Not just for n-gauge it works just as well with all gauges.

Paul

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Re: changing from oo to N

#9

Post by Mountain Goat » Thu Dec 05, 2019 1:16 pm

N gauge. Code 55 and code 80 track.... If I am not mistaken (A long time since I had N gauge, and when I bought N gauge, code 55 had just come in as a new product and was before the days when Bachmann took over Graham Farish), that even most older N gauge stock will run on code 55? (Hopefully someone can clarify this if it has not already been clarified above). Code 55 track was cleverly made as it actually has the same railheight as code 80, but a portion of the rail height is hidden in the thicker plastic sleeper base, so it looks lower profile. Also, due to this, code 80 and code 55 have the same railheight if joined together on a flat surface, and the railjoiners line up perfectly too.
I was really impressed with the new code 55 track. I mixed Peco code 80 set track with Peco code 55 flexible track with no issues whatsoever. It was perfect! A very well thought out design.
N gauge couplings... Due to the overscale look, for many years there has been alternative options. Sprat&Winkle has been one of those choices for many decades. They are fully automatic using the mangets under the track method of operation. The only downside is fitting the things to those few awkward vehicles. But there again, I bought the 00 scale version for use with 00, so one needs good eyesight and patience with N scale.
I have not seen Dapols version but it does seem promising.
For me, when I had N gauge, it was the large size of those couplings rather then if they were automatic or not. It puzzles me both with 00 and N gauge, that as we are stating tat modern N and 00 are "Scale models" why more suitable designs of couplings are not fitted. Sprat and winkles can be used on 1st radius curves, and they are not only automatic, but close the gap between the vehicles to make them look more prototypical.
There are also alternative couplings to look for which may better suite your needs.

Cleaning wheels and track. Uhmm. I did find I was spending more time and effort cleaning in both N gauge and the larger H0e (009) whick run on the same gauge width of track. The graphite route I had not heard of in those days. I have not actually tried it yet. As long as one has no gradients or very heavy trains to pull, the graphite idea does seem a plan, but if you do want to pull long heavy trains or have gardients, remember that graphite is a lubricant and is a very good one too. But for electrical conductivity it is said to be excellent.
I may try it on my layout when I wire it up. I could also try another method which I won't mention here.... But I can get away with as my sleepers are not plastic.
Enjoying freelance modelling in 7mm narrow gauge Feel free to ask questions relating to the Mountain Goats Waggon & Carriage Works thread.

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