My first Go

Help with designing your track work
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GaryH
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My first Go

#1

Post by GaryH »

Hi this is my first attempt at my HO layout please be gentle is there anything i can do to make better, Outer loop is raised to go over Viaduct not sure if to keep separate from lower loop, or if I even have enough space to bring down to lower track, would also like to keep back board more scenic ??
Gary

PS Sorry forgot to mention Size 11' X 7'

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andruec
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Re: My first Go

#2

Post by andruec »

I think it's a good looking layout, just a few practicalities to consider I think.

Is the central yellow area going to be cut out? It seems a bit small for access if so (5.5' by 2.5'?).

When you say the outer loop is raised do you mean it uses a viaduct to go over the stream top left? If so it should be okay but it depends how high the viaduct will be. Inclines should stay below 3% if possible and no more than 2% ideally.

If the viaduct in your picture is just the black corner then you appear to have 12' available for an incline (sidings have to be on level ground as should curves). Divided by 2 (what goes up must come down :) ) that gives a maximum viaduct height of 2.16" at 3%. Unfortunately that assumes a 50/50 split and the sidings at the bottom don't appear to allow that. What you might be able to do is have the bottom sidings be on a mezzanine. If you then moved the solitary turnout further right that might allow you to drop the track down to ground level and thus retain joined loops.

Image

Red lines indicate inclines.

I have joined loops and they are a great idea. I can run a train around my outer loop, another on the inner loop or just a single train running both loops in turn. In your case that's not so easy as you only appear to have one way access (ie;to get on/off you'd have to reverse down the incline I've modified). You might be able to use a diamond crossing half way along the track I've changed (on its own little mezzanine) so that the descending incline crosses the ascending incline. That sounds a bit funky but I take the view that as long as trains don't derail you can lay track anywhere and any how you like :)

If you want a taller viaduct you could go all modern and cut out that corner of the baseboard and have a cliff between the curves of the inner and outer loop. Basically you'd build a gorge top left. That would be fun to build :)
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GaryH
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Re: My first Go

#3

Post by GaryH »

Thanks andruec I am planning to to do the board open and as you say could have three steps for the layout the viaduct could then still be large the inner loop can then be half again with the sidings on the flat I will look into Xover The outer loop sideings I hoped would be the station needs a bit more work and the yellow is a cut out, might have to increase its size need to measure out and try standing in it lol.
Also looking at some sort of hillside to hide some of the track ??

Gary
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andruec
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Re: My first Go

#4

Post by andruec »

Hiding some of the track certainly adds interest. Adding a scenic hill should be quite easy. I think these days people recommend insulation 'pink' foam so just get a sheet of that, prop it up (~2.5" for HO gauge apparently) so that you have enough track clearance then use Modrock for the sides, or whatever else takes your fancy. I used 12mm ply which was probably thicker than it needed to be and was a pain to move around until I cut it down to size. Some people actually use insulation foam for the entire board which is something I will look at for my next layout (in a few years, lol).

Being able to run from loop to loop is nice as it can help avoid the 'train set look' for smaller models like ours. My layout is 2.1m by 1.5m so a bit smaller than yours. But it's n gauge and when running one train round both loops it takes over a minute for it to complete a circuit. My layout also has the inner loop (which is actually a figure of eight) hidden at the cross over so that helps.

I wasn't entirely serious about you having a diamond crossover at the half way point of two inclines. I think it would work but is definitely different. You'd have to be a bit careful about the track joins as they'd be under downward pressure so they might bend rather than the track which would be not good. I have a similar problem on part of my layout and I'm debating whether to use glue (my normal strategy) or actually resort to a single screw to take the strain off the fishplates.
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GaryH
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Re: My first Go

#5

Post by GaryH »

Thanks andruec I used Insolation Board for my N Gauge layout which worked really well still not had time to check Xover out yet but plan is only first idea and can change to before I can start anyway

Gary
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andruec
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Re: My first Go

#6

Post by andruec »

Ah. Yes my next layout will probably be OO. It won't be for a few years yet though. When I buy my 'retirement house' in a few years I'll ensure that it has a big enough area for a decent OO layout. N gauge is great when you're space constrained but it is a bit fiddly and some aspects like couplings seem dodgy. It amazes me that there are smaller scales than N :)
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bulleidboy
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Re: My first Go

#7

Post by bulleidboy »

I'm being a bit over picky here, but there is a slight difference between 00 and HO gauge - HO trains run on a 16.5mm gauge track. OO scale is generally only used for models of British prototype. ... The trains still run on the same 16.5 mm gauge track as HO models. OO models are slightly larger than HO, but the difference is not normally noticeable.

In time you might notice the difference when placing buildings/people etc., as said HO is slightly smaller - it's not a big problem.

Will you be using Settrack or Flexi? You want to to try and keep your curves as gentle as possible - avoid 1st and 2nd radius - 3rd and 4th are fine - on your outer circuits, if you have room, you could use 4th radius on the inner line and flexy on the outer. Your layout size is fine at 11x7 - mine is 10x7 and runs around three sides of the room, with boards two feet deep - you need to be able to reach the back of the boards easily. Inclines, ideally should be as gradual as possible 1" in 50" - greater if possible. If you wish to build a hill (scenic break), insulation foam is fine, just layer it - stuck mine with No Nails and held in place intially with wooden kebab skewers. BB
Last edited by bulleidboy on Wed Jan 20, 2021 11:12 am, edited 1 time in total.
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GaryH
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Re: My first Go

#8

Post by GaryH »

Thanks bulleiboy must admit I used to do n Gauge and didn't have that problem and is still still slightly confusing but was going down 1:76 scale which ever that is.
I will be using flexi track mostly not sure on SL100 or SL75 Thanks for the 4th curve radius tip.

Going DCC as that what I used on N gauge just stuck between three makes at the moment NCE, Digitrax or Gaugemaster, am leaning towards Digitrax EVOX Evolution Express Or next model up?? used NCE powercab for N gauge

Lastly any chance of a photo of your Layout to gauge size please

Gary
PS My N gauge in link below
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bulleidboy
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Re: My first Go

#9

Post by bulleidboy »

Hi Gary
You can see "Wykeham - Somewhere in the south" under members layouts - numerous pictures from initial construction to now. It's an end-to-end, as to have reasonable radius curves at both ends of the room would have eaten into the overall length. Like many, the layout has become a bit of a large diorama, very few trains running, but a lot of time spent getting detail looking good. There are a number of layouts in this section, with lots of pictures - all of which give inspiration. I spent a lot of time reading and watching "how to" Youtube videos before I commenced work on the layout. Barry (aka BB).
Tomorrow will be a good day!
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Chops
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Re: My first Go

#10

Post by Chops »

A useful observation that the downward slope approaching the station areas might be troublesome. The lateral effect of points and the downslope weight of the train is sure to cause a lot of derailing.

Always interesting to see a strong emphasis on passenger service. Not done nearly as much in North American rail, by far. I rather like it.
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