Model Railway Forum

Whether the PL-10 works directly under the baseboard depends on how thick your baseboards are.

Hatton's prices for PL-10 and PL-10E motors are the same, so why not just buy PL-10Es and trim to the correct length when fitting? You can't go wrong this way.

But their answer is correct regarding the PL-10: it can only be used via directly fitting to the turnout and this requires a big hole to be cut into your baseboard.

Been on them for about 7 years - 40mg dose. Never had any side effects and all 6-monthly check-up results show normal or better levels of cholesterol etc.

This is modelled to represent the early days of BR. At some point during this period, Eastleigh found itself short of new BR transfers, and a number of locos were outshopped after overhaul without the totems. I have seen photos of other engines in this state, such as M7s and King Arthurs for example...

Another free webcam with the same picture quality is the one at Dawlish - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sKQJEL-xjjc

Can be quite spectacular when the sea's rough!

I have this arrangement on my layout. You need a DPDT switch on the point motor controlling the turnout. This can either be the PL-15 attached to the Peco motor, or a slow-motion turnout such as Tortoise or Cobalt which has two built-in switches (I use Tortoise motors). The point frog and the diamon...

Even the unweathered versions are £382.86 so it's not the cost of weathering. I too bought a couple of 4-CEPs in 2013 for £69 each. Don't understand why the high price now as there are no new tooling costs to recover. Incidentally I took the wife to a routine hospital check-up yesterday and while I ...

Seems Hatton's are not only producing the class 66, but also acting as wholesale suppliers of this model to other retailers which seems to be the sticking point. Not the same, I suspect, as Rails or Hatton's commissioning a one-off model which they then retail exclusively. My Bachmann pre-orders at ...

'Best' way - solder. As with many things in life there are often more ways than one to do a particular task. Absolutely nothing wrong with using mechanical connectors such as Scotchloks to provide bus connections, so long as you take care to use the right size for the wire. Likewise, solder is fine...

Best way is to use Wago connectors for your terminal blocks, and connect these to your bus via a Scotchlok connector.