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Old 19-06-2018, 09:28 PM   #11
ScottC
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mountain Goat View Post
Just to clarify. What is a harness?
This is what I am meaning by a harness: DCC Harness

My plan is to fit my DC locos with similar ones to this so I can easily change decoders in future if required.

Thanks for the advice and to everyone else... I think the Lenz decoders are tempting me at the moment.
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Old 19-06-2018, 10:07 PM   #12
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May be problems space wise fitting harnesses as routine, quite often the space taken by the 8 pin socket is excessive in terms of the available space for a decoder and I have in some locos removed the socket and hard wired a decoder as that allows for a greater choice of decoder whereas the limited space left with the socket in situ means the choice of decoder is severely limited. Choose a good quality decoder to start with and there should be no problem having it hard wiring it in situ and no need for a harness. Indeed on many Hornby locos ripping out 95% of the existing wiring and hard wiring a decoder in place makes for a far neater arrangement given the excessive amounts of wiring Hornby use. I try to avoid

1. decoders dangling on length of cable in the loco as that is invariable bound to cause problems putting it back together and look to stick the decoder in situ somewhere with a sticky pad (Lenz provide one with their decoders).

2. removing any weight. The classic example is the Hornby M7 where you told to remove a weight to make space for the decoder; their is enough space for a TCS DP2X-UK fitted the wrong way round in the 8 pin socket without needing any weight to be removed, or by removing the 8 pin socket their is then space for a small decoder (TCS M1) to be hard wired in place.

Anyone confused by CV programming would benefit from using JMRIs Decoder Pro http://jmri.org/help/en/html/apps/De.../Install.shtml
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Old 20-06-2018, 09:57 AM   #13
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If you are worried about having too many CVs to adjust then buy a Zimo. The default settings almost always OK so that you don't need to adjust anything to get excellent results. Buying a cheap decoder with few CVs usually means that you put up with sub-optimal operation because you have no way to adjust things to make it work well.

Less so nowadays but many manufacturers (Lenz, TCS etc.) used to make their decoders with the jst-9 socket on which was a popular standard socket for many years especially in North American locos, and the decoders were often provided with an adaptor cable (the harness) either to bare wires or to a NEM 651 or 652 plug. With the prevalence nowadays of direct plug decoders like PluX or MTC-21 the jst-9 interface has been dropped and decoders no longer have detachable adapter cables instead either being direct plug or having wires soldered on in place of the PluX (Zimo MX600 for example) or MTC-21 connector.

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Old 20-06-2018, 10:18 AM   #14
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[QUOTE=Mike Parkes;159988]

2. removing any weight. The classic example is the Hornby M7 where you told to remove a weight to make space for the decoder; their is enough space for a TCS DP2X-UK fitted the wrong way round in the 8 pin socket without needing any weight to be removed, or by removing the 8 pin socket their is then space for a small decoder (TCS M1) to be hard wired in place.


Hi Mike

Sorry I'm not being picky, but I don't recall having to fit the TCS DP2X-UK in my M7 the wrong way round. I did read it wouldn't fit at all, but mine went straight in - a tight fit, there was at the time also mention of some of the earlier DP2X-UK decoders being fractionally smaller - I bought about a dozen in the US. Barry
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Old 20-06-2018, 11:09 AM   #15
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I have three M7s - two with the DP2X-UK in them which would only get the body refitted by turning the decoder round i.e. pin 1 of the decoder in pin 5 of the socket. I did on another forum recommend the DP2X-UK to get a reply from someone saying they could only get it to fit by filing the hole in the body bigger! On the third M7 I hard wired a M1 and to be honest that is the far neater solution as it gets rid of the excess quantity of wiring that Hornby manage to fit to all of their locos as well as the socket and is a very simple hard wire; two wires to the motor terminals, one pick up wire to an existing tag on the metal chassis block and just one connection that needs to be heatshrunk; that to the solitary wire from the pick ups. The advantage of the hard wired M7 is that taking the body off has no impact whereas on the two with the DP2X-UK in them invariably the decoder gets pulled out of the socket as the body parts from the chassis.
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Old 20-06-2018, 12:04 PM   #16
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Little update... i've purchased two Lenz Standard+ V2 Decoders and once they arrive will give them a go. All being well, i'll order a fair few more and begin the slow process of DCC'ing everything.

Thanks all for your advice.
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Old 20-06-2018, 01:27 PM   #17
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You have made a wise choice in buying something decent there that make of decoder will serve you well
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Old 20-06-2018, 04:06 PM   #18
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Scott - if your A3 is the loco driven superdetailed version then a Standard should fit stuck to the angled edge of the motor mount at the firebox end of the chassis as that it where one is in mine. Just need to route the wires to the plug carefully across the motor.
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Old 21-06-2018, 09:06 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ScottC View Post
Little update... i've purchased two Lenz Standard+ V2 Decoders and once they arrive will give them a go. All being well, i'll order a fair few more and begin the slow process of DCC'ing everything.

Thanks all for your advice.
The Lenz decoder is an excellent choice I must say. You can change CVs to suit what ever you like or just leave it as standard. Great versatility, reliability and an excellent price. I have fitted them to about 30 locos and have never had a failure. Very easy to speed match trains.
Most were just plugged into the socket but hard wiring is very easy and as someone said about the double sided tape supplied, fitting is a piece of cake.
I get mine sent to Australia from Germany for less than any other decoder available.
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