Model Railway Forum

Go Back   Model Railway Forum > Model Railway Forum Information > The Welcome Forum

The Welcome Forum Just joined, say hello in here!


Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 20-11-2017, 11:21 PM   #11
Hal
Junior Member
 

Join Date: Apr 2016
Posts: 17
Hal is on a distinguished road
Default

IMG_1180.JPG
Quote:
Originally Posted by ians View Post
You're probably remembering having read about Series 4 track (old track) and System 6 (new track) that are incompatible in size.

You can get converter track and use it to connect to a new extended section if you have a lot of old track and wish to buy some new. I'd avoid Series 4 track 2nd hand, pre-owned or previously loved as many contain very poor track amongst the good ones. Postage costs are also an issue with large quantities of track you see as 'Job lots'.

A photo or two of the track and locos would interesting and we can probably tell from them if it is Series 4 (or 3) or System 6.
Have I successfully attached a pic here?? Not very good at this sort of stuff!!
Hal is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 20-11-2017, 11:30 PM   #12
ians
Talkative Member
 

Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: NE England -Washington
Posts: 226
ians is on a distinguished road
Default

The pic is a Super 4 track which looks rather damaged.

If the rest of the track is as poor as this one then I'm sure most will say start from scratch with replacement modern track.

Be careful what you buy on the well known auction site, track sold there is often poorer than can be indicated from pictures. I've tried and found to my cost that the track looks ok in pictures but it's not very good. Also, postage costs are high as track is heavy. Others may have better advice.

Last edited by ians; 20-11-2017 at 11:34 PM.
ians is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 23-11-2017, 08:46 AM   #13
Hal
Junior Member
 

Join Date: Apr 2016
Posts: 17
Hal is on a distinguished road
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by ians View Post
The pic is a Super 4 track which looks rather damaged.

If the rest of the track is as poor as this one then I'm sure most will say start from scratch with replacement modern track.

Be careful what you buy on the well known auction site, track sold there is often poorer than can be indicated from pictures. I've tried and found to my cost that the track looks ok in pictures but it's not very good. Also, postage costs are high as track is heavy. Others may have better advice.
Thank you. I'm hoping that the rest of the track is in better shape. As far as I can remember, the example in the photo was a "double length" straight and didn't fit into the box with the rest of the stuff and was therefore stored loose in the attic (for the last 25 years!!). I'm keen to use as much of my original stuff as possible, however, I may have to rethink this if necessary.
Hal is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-04-2018, 09:49 PM   #14
Hal
Junior Member
 

Join Date: Apr 2016
Posts: 17
Hal is on a distinguished road
Default

Hi! I'm back! So, I've finished my baseboard (at long last!) and got out all my old Super4 Track! Firstly, there's far less track than I remember, certainly not enough to complete what I have in mind for my new layout. Worse still, as many of you suggested, I have indeed had trouble with the quality of the track. Some is OK, and conducts electric, but a lot less so. New fishplates would make a difference, but I'm now considering starting over with new track. I still want to run my 1968 rolling stock, and I read somewhere that the shallower depth of new track could be an issue. Also, the new Series6 track I have seen has a sleeper missing where the track connects, and (in my opinion) looks rubbish compared with the continuous sleepers of Super4! Has anyone any advice on the track I should purchase that will be OK for old rolling stock AND look as good as Super4? Many thanks in advance.
Hal is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-04-2018, 01:12 AM   #15
Mountain Goat
Unique Member.
 
Mountain Goat's Avatar
 

Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: UK.
Posts: 2,484
Mountain Goat is an unknown quantity at this point
Default

You should be OK with the standard Hornby track or the Peco set track. I know with Peco you usually need some filing out the flangeways (Which voids any warranty) to get the trains to run. Hornby flangeways are more generous but may need work. Slightly older Hornby points work fine with old Triang locos and the later ones had nickel silver rails. The current new ones also have nickel silver rails.
It maybe worth looking at Elaine's Trains as she is a Triang specialist.
My advice though is that most Triang locos should run on standard code 100 track as long as one avoids pointwork with narrow flangeways.

Last edited by Mountain Goat; 06-04-2018 at 01:14 AM.
Mountain Goat is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-04-2018, 04:44 AM   #16
Chops
Senior Member
 
Chops's Avatar
 

Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: El Paso, Texas USA
Posts: 491
Chops is on a distinguished road
Default

A fascinating endeavor, and with so much family history. I do hope you
will post some photographs of the progress. It doesn't have to be
museum quality, just yours.
__________________
Chops
Chops is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-04-2018, 08:29 AM   #17
LC&DR
Goods Shunter (retired)
 
LC&DR's Avatar
 

Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: York
Posts: 766
LC&DR is on a distinguished road
Default

Your old trains will probably run on modern track, plain line anyway, by 1968 the wheel standards were still fairly crude but had improved from the 1950s but you may encounter a little trouble with modern points and older wheel standards. On my opinion Super 4 track looked better despite being overscale, but it hasn't been made or sold new for about 50 years!

Buying new fishplates will not be an option as these have not been made or sold either, I have a lot of old Triang track which need new fishplates but it seems the fishplates rust before everything else and this is the problem with many of mine. I have tried to clean the rust from inside the fishplates to improve electrical conductivity with moderate success by inserting a Dremel with a fine burr inside each fishplate and waggling it about to break up the rust. It seems to work, but I would not go so far as to suggest anyone else does this as it can wreck the track if you get it wrong or injure yourself. In have also soldered copper wire jumpers over each rail joint (under the rail) on some Triang Series 3 track, and this would work with Super 4 too.

You will need a clean rail head and clean fishplates for electrical conductivity but a bit of rust on the side of the rails should not be a problem. I have polished the rail head with track rubber for light rusting, but if the rail is pitted, forget it.

Super 4 can still be bought (pre-loved) , and often in good condition. but you will need to search for it. Auction sites are one way but Caveat Emptor. I usually buy mine at Toy Fairs where I can inspect it first.

I have used the old track and trains to demonstrate the old Triang systems, here I was at Sledmere Hall, East Yorkshire 4 years ago with a combined Super 4, Series 3 layout.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Sledmere Triang Layout.JPG (150.1 KB, 15 views)

Last edited by LC&DR; 06-04-2018 at 08:31 AM.
LC&DR is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-04-2018, 11:51 AM   #18
Hal
Junior Member
 

Join Date: Apr 2016
Posts: 17
Hal is on a distinguished road
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mountain Goat View Post
You should be OK with the standard Hornby track or the Peco set track. I know with Peco you usually need some filing out the flangeways (Which voids any warranty) to get the trains to run. Hornby flangeways are more generous but may need work. Slightly older Hornby points work fine with old Triang locos and the later ones had nickel silver rails. The current new ones also have nickel silver rails.
It maybe worth looking at Elaine's Trains as she is a Triang specialist.
My advice though is that most Triang locos should run on standard code 100 track as long as one avoids pointwork with narrow flangeways.
Thank you so much, that is very helpful.
Hal is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-04-2018, 11:53 AM   #19
Hal
Junior Member
 

Join Date: Apr 2016
Posts: 17
Hal is on a distinguished road
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Chops View Post
A fascinating endeavor, and with so much family history. I do hope you
will post some photographs of the progress. It doesn't have to be
museum quality, just yours.
I will attempt to post some photos, hopefully not upside down ones like my earlier attempt!
Hal is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-04-2018, 12:01 PM   #20
Hal
Junior Member
 

Join Date: Apr 2016
Posts: 17
Hal is on a distinguished road
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by LC&DR View Post
Your old trains will probably run on modern track, plain line anyway, by 1968 the wheel standards were still fairly crude but had improved from the 1950s but you may encounter a little trouble with modern points and older wheel standards. On my opinion Super 4 track looked better despite being overscale, but it hasn't been made or sold new for about 50 years!

Buying new fishplates will not be an option as these have not been made or sold either, I have a lot of old Triang track which need new fishplates but it seems the fishplates rust before everything else and this is the problem with many of mine. I have tried to clean the rust from inside the fishplates to improve electrical conductivity with moderate success by inserting a Dremel with a fine burr inside each fishplate and waggling it about to break up the rust. It seems to work, but I would not go so far as to suggest anyone else does this as it can wreck the track if you get it wrong or injure yourself. In have also soldered copper wire jumpers over each rail joint (under the rail) on some Triang Series 3 track, and this would work with Super 4 too.

You will need a clean rail head and clean fishplates for electrical conductivity but a bit of rust on the side of the rails should not be a problem. I have polished the rail head with track rubber for light rusting, but if the rail is pitted, forget it.

Super 4 can still be bought (pre-loved) , and often in good condition. but you will need to search for it. Auction sites are one way but Caveat Emptor. I usually buy mine at Toy Fairs where I can inspect it first.

I have used the old track and trains to demonstrate the old Triang systems, here I was at Sledmere Hall, East Yorkshire 4 years ago with a combined Super 4, Series 3 layout.
Thank you so much for such a detailed response and for the photo of the excellent layout.
Hal is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Bookmarks



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump



All times are GMT +1. The time now is 09:09 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.3
Copyright ©2000 - 2018, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.