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Old 24-08-2017, 09:39 AM   #21
Steve M
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Jamie, don't underestimate the amount of wire you need.
Secondly, the inference from your diagrams is that your bus pair will roughly follow the track plan around the board. It's one way to do it but you could just run a pair of bus wires straight down the middle of the board and feed the droppers to the tracks either side - rather like a herring bone pattern.
And don't worry about the ends of the bus wires, they don't need to be terminated although a simple filter, either purchased or made from a couple of cheap components may be helpful to guiet any 'noise'. Smaller layouts may not need them at all. I have them on one layout but not the other (silmilar size) and can't see a difference.
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Old 24-08-2017, 10:30 AM   #22
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Hi
As Steve says run the main bus down the middle where the layout isn't too wide and then feed smaller sized droppers off of it. Save wire (Its too expensive!) where 32/0.2mm is concerned and only buy the amount needed. Often 32/0.2mm is sold by 1Mtr or 10Mtr lengths. Then use smaller 16/0.2mm wire for the droppers. Keep the insulation colours the same for both Bus pair and droppers e.g. Red & Black etc. Using 32/0.2mm for droppers is way OTT and you will find it hard to solder to the rails due to its large wire size. 16/0.2mm equipment wire is more than adequate for droppers.
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Old 24-08-2017, 10:40 AM   #23
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As FB says be consistent with your wiring colours - I did, well almost!
I used the blue and brown wires stripped from household twin and earth then black and red for droppers - red to brown and black to blue. It works provided you are consistent across the whole layout.
You will have read about putting a bit of coloured tape on one side of a wagon and pushing it with your finger to establish which rail is which. I did this and marked the baseboard by the side of the rails with either a red or black felt pen to ensure I soldered the wires the right way round.
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Old 24-08-2017, 07:10 PM   #24
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100M 32/0.2 23 inc. vat. (Planning on at least red and black in this gauge)
I was hoping to save on buying smaller gauges also! That's when it starts getting expensive! I'm fairly sure I'll find something to build out of the remainder but I was just hoping, really hoping! that I'd get away with one type.........
Alas further delay......(I'm still smiling.....thinking aloud, actually ten meters could be a cost cutting exercise but I'd probably need 20 metres each, seen on flea bay for about 4 per 10m plus post, that's about 17) I have 27foot (longest length of each board.....plus turns and sensible routing, off cuts and errors......)

What is the interference circuit? Just a ceramic cap or is there more to it?
Please explain this, filter......


Thanks for the herring bone advice! Something I was considering for the main board, as it's essentially an end to end by itself and virtually all track is within 150mm except the weigh bridge line. That's one more question solved!

I followed the line because I had read that droppers shouldn't be more than a foot long, maybe that was specific to a wire gauge and I'm missing some important information!
(Which, given the volumes I've read recently regarding this particular sport, is no surprise to me, i AM confusing myself with literature)

Yup! I'm planning to make a nice job of the electrical part! Electronics is something I started with just recently, November last year!
I made this (see attachment, or follow link in post one, and see my electronics album on flickr for more details) from a circuit diagram............from MFOS website, it is a noise toaster, check it out.......
(Sorry I'm still pleased with myself over this particular project)

Back to it.......
Phew! I hope I covered everything!

Edit,
Just briefly,
I understand dcc to be split rail (eg +12 -12) how does this affect what I'm doing when the change happens? What happens to 0V is this left open.....does it count your common, like reference earth.

Is this (or more accurately in my case) can this (dcc) be just for track power, I assume yes.....
But I'm guessing!
Also I'm still assuming the cobalts (can) take a separate feed (a different source to the track) which is isolated from the motor relays.

I'm asking because I'd quite like to build stall motor drivers with point safety switches using rob paisleys schematics, which I'm also currently working on the strip board design. So hopefully I can use it!
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Old 28-08-2017, 05:15 PM   #25
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Flash bang,
Thanks for saving me tons of cash!
The end.
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Old 30-08-2017, 11:36 AM   #26
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A question about fusing?

So far I've done a lot of thinking about how I'm going to build this up.
I've reached this point, each reverse loop with sidings and respective wing will be separate and the display will also be a separate connection from the control panel. That gives me 3 zones......
To fuse them or not?
If so with which type?
I'm considering automotive blade types or pcb style self resetting.......
Is this necessary?

The control panel will have the siding and point switches on it, and a feed in/out for track power.
I seem to have a lot of cables (2per point motor 2 per zone 2 per switch and additional cables planned for point protection photo transistors) approx 30+wires!
Is this normal or am I doing something wrong!
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Old 30-08-2017, 12:24 PM   #27
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If its DCC one of these....

http://www.coastaldcc.co.uk/products...ield-x-1-block
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Old 30-08-2017, 01:29 PM   #28
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Initially it will be dc (first section and wing)
But when the main assembly is built I will convert to dcc.
So how does that leave things!
(I realise I'd be better off starting from scratch with dcc but I can't afford to, so any ideas or assistance/insight will be greatly appreaciated)
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Old 30-08-2017, 07:05 PM   #29
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Fuses are not fast enough for DCC but are fine on DC.

The only recommended DCC circuit protection is via an all electronic circuit breaker. Such as the PSX 1 unit, the On Guard OGCB or build your own from the MERG kit.

You could arrange the wiring to allow for later insertion of a CB?
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Old 30-08-2017, 07:10 PM   #30
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Thread moved to DCC section, as this appears this is the better location for the the topic.
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