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On The Workbench A place to show what you are building, altering, kit bashing etc


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Old 14-11-2016, 08:23 AM   #21
IndoBob
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This is good. One of the beautiful things about narrow gauge is that you can build just about anything and it can be correct, no problem with prototypes. I only model in OO but I could be tempted to try a larger narrow gauge just for fun, if I had the time.
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Old 14-11-2016, 12:24 PM   #22
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I originally started by making a larger cab and chimney for a Hornby 0/4/0 saddle tank when I was in my teens to early 20's. I later decided to keep to 00 so I converted it back with a cab from a scrapped loco. I still have it and have removed its cab ready for converting back one day!
Then around 17 years later I saw a Smallbrook Studio "Clio" kit being advertised and I was so impressed I just had to buy it! It stayed in its packet for around two years before I made a start. It is the one called "Ruthy". What impressed me the most is they ooze character, and like you say; it's a case of anything goes! It is this freelance approach that really inspires me. If I was a rivit counter (Nothing wrong with those that have the patience to add such detail!) I'd not have made what I've made. Somehow ideas that seem quite crude work well and blend in. For example the wooden wagons! Just went to a well known hardware store and saw lengths of wood... Went back with a pair of wheels to see if the wood had possibilities... Bought the wood and the experiment took place! So far the wagons I've scratch built have been in 1's and 2's rather then in great quantity as I have been more interested in exploring what is possible then actually making them. It is why at the moment many are in an unfinished state. I also have a small layout like this currently with a semicircle of scratch built track and a single scratch built point (Turnout) built to a single bladed design. Actually works well in initial testing.
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Old 14-11-2016, 12:33 PM   #23
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The best thing about modelling both in 00 and 0-16.5 is that any scrappy older models in 00 or H0 act as ideal donor parts for 0-16.5 models. So things make perfect sense. Prior to 0-16.5, I did try 009 (Actually H0e), but after spending nearly 500 pounds on them, they ended up sitting there. Brilliant models but track needs to be kept clean, any chassis or couplings etc needed to scratch build didn't come that cheap compared to secondhand 00, and it was just too small! One slip with the paintbrush and one can paint half a wagon! So I eventually gave the collection to a friend who was building a new line next to his 00 gauge line. He was thrilled!
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Old 14-11-2016, 02:04 PM   #24
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00 gauge project to finish on a rainy day!
When a teenager I wanted all to be Great Western. I had some Triang coaches and a couple of Lima MK1 coaches in GWR livery colours. I had a Lima full brake coach. I decided to make it into a brake 3rd style coach. I cut the body sides in half and made the other half out of card. While I liked my early efforts they were not exactly that good! In more recent years, having a resin casting kit I decided if I could get the coach looking a bit more like a coach!
The old Triang coaches come apart and the sides come seperate so rather then trying to copy another Lima full brake, the Triang option was the easiest way to go. I therefore got out the resin casting kit and the play dough... (As I only wanted to cast one pair of sides so play dough acted as a temporary mould).
So sides were cast. One came out very well indeed and the other came out OK as I had disturbed the mould, not realising that these castings needed more time. They are both a success. Now the hardest part was that every window needed to be "Opened up" as thin resin had covered over the back of the castings, and with a mini drill and small files and quite a few hours of concentration, finally the sides are just about ready. I was going to make a start to glue them in place (After cutting off the see through plastic sides from the Lima roof that act as windows and are in the way.. Parts of this plastic removed were used to construct sub frames for the "Chassis" (If it can be called that!) to the 0-16.5 wagon that I took the body from a battery kiddies train set used as a donor to build it), but I found that without some form of interior the thing just wouldn't look right. So it is a project waiting for me to build an interior one of these days!
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Old 14-11-2016, 03:50 PM   #25
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A new experiment has met with success. Nameplates and numberplates for locomotives and station signs etc.
For a while now it has been on my mind that I really need some way of printing them into aluminium drinks can as freehand scribing took a few attempts to get right for each name. (Hence original intended name of loco number one "Adoline" became "Ruthy" instead!)
While thoughts went to one of our old typewrighters, these imprints would be the wrong way round.
Then inspiration...My old Babypress printing device. Remember them? Designed to print on that plastic tape? Well. Took me a while to find it. Just tried it on remnants of a cola can and success! More experimenting to follow....
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Old 15-11-2016, 09:30 AM   #26
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Experiment successful.
One photograph shows the Baby press printing device. These were made for sticky back tape for labelling purposes, though I've not seen the tape lately in local retail stores. Aluminium drinks can works well for nameplates (As can be seen!). The picture shows the sample sign just after it was printed so I've not flattened the slight deformities or tried to add a surround.
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Old 17-11-2016, 10:00 PM   #27
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I thought I'd show a scratch built coach. It has a pair of Romford wheels with small bits of Peco rail (Code 100) drilled and reamed to form their new use as nickel silver axle boxes.
The floor and running boards on the chassis are lollypopstick, as are the woodwork on the outer ends and the inner walls to the entrance. Sides and roof are tea sturers with the roof having the tea sturers split along the length before glueing in place. Other wood pieces are small lengths from a well known hardware store, that have been cut along the length for the chassis and just cut to length to form the seating, which also gives some internal strength to it.
The body and chassis are quite robust for what I expected though the axle boxes don't like being dropped! Super glue was used throughout (Bought three for a pound or as cheap as possible depending on where bought at the time!) Which works OK but wood does tend to soak it up a bit, and one found ones fingers to be glued quicker then the wooden parts!
Originally this was the first vehicle to have my Mk1 couplings. These were drawing pins with a central slot and a paperclip attached sideways along the bufferbeam to a lever, so I could lift the hook that went through the slot in the drawing pin buffer. It worked OK at first but didn't like too many wagons behind it or sharp corners so was abandoned for my Mk2 version which has been a success. (Yet to finish them on this coach).
The doors are offcuts from the mesh sheets as used on the very first wagon on this thread, and suitably painted.
I hope this thread inspires all who read it to give scratch building (And kit building) in this scale a try! I'm by no means an expert. Just a dreamer who spends ages dreaming up ideas and then after days, sometimes months and for a few ideas, more then a year or two of dreaming before I am happy with the ideas and give them a go....
I call my modelling style "Messy Modelling". Its been fun!
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Last edited by Mountain Goat; 17-11-2016 at 10:07 PM. Reason: Correcting gramma etc.
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Old 17-11-2016, 10:04 PM   #28
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That looks very neat. I suppose anything goes with narrow gauge.
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Old 18-11-2016, 12:35 AM   #29
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Thanks Walkingthedog. I had the design in my head to base that coach on a conversion from one of the old horse drawn tramways that used to be used on lines like the original Fairborne Tramway (Now called railway). I think I got the right look to it. It has the longest wheelbase that goes round the curves on my little layout which turns 180 on a board 2' width.
When making wagons or coaches from wood, I've never needed to add any weight as they are heavy enough as they are. I would not use balsa as it is too light and too expensive!
So far although I add weight to the resin locomotives (Don't need to add weight but I have done so because I wanted to), the only item I've needed to boost weight to (It still could do with extra weight) is the plastic bodied wagon that came from the toy trainset. For some reason plastic used for model railway use (E.g. wagons, coaches etc) is quite light weight.
I also find by using wood for wood bodied wagons or coaches and metal (Usually tin) for metal bodied wagons, that though they are crude in the lack of fine detail, it is not that noticeable, and a plastic bodied wagon seems to really need weathering and beating up a bit to look anywhere near as real! The plastic bodied wagon I made had a fair amount of "Stressing" to give it a hint of realism to it.
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Last edited by Mountain Goat; 18-11-2016 at 12:47 AM. Reason: Adding more.
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Old 18-11-2016, 10:14 PM   #30
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Another Peco 0-16.5 coach kit built as a brake coach and repainted. Internal detail added with a slightly cross eyed guard (Tried to photo his eyes. Not easy to paint the pupils of his eyes. Mind you. I've seen prototypes but not sure if they'd pass the medical!)
I was going to add a brake wheel but after not finding anything suitable, I remembered the Toad brake vans and copied!
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