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Modelling Techniques - Show and Tell Your place to show and describe in detail and with photos how you produced a specific item of modelling. Rolling stock, Building, Scenery or something else related.


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Old 10-08-2018, 11:23 AM   #81
RogerB
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Very good. R-
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Old 10-08-2018, 11:26 AM   #82
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Very good, well worth the effort!
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Old 10-08-2018, 12:46 PM   #83
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I'm liking a lot....
Hope the servants start behaving
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Old 11-08-2018, 11:29 AM   #84
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I wasn’t too bothered about cutting a small slit in the buffer beams of the goods wagons to fit the couplings into but I’m less inclined to do the same with the locos.
My solution is to pull out the dummy coupling hook leaving the preformed hole in the buffer beam. Then trim the Dingham to length and slim down the width of the fitting.

20180811_103940 by Steve Mumford, on Flickr

Slide an etched coverplate into place and attach the hook with a small amount of superglue and it should automatically be set at the correct height.

20180811_104951 by Steve Mumford, on Flickr
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Old 12-08-2018, 12:29 PM   #85
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I’m starting to draw some conclusions from this exercise.

The couplings, once fettled, work well on my goods wagons and the 1F but at the moment it’s a different story when it comes to coaching stock and my Stanier mogul.

Conversion was a piece of cake - no cutting or drilling needed anywhere - but buffer locking on curves keeps flicking the tender off the track. The coach originally had a cantilevered NEM pocket that automatically stretched the coupling space on curves, but the Dingham is rigidly fixed to the buffer so sideways movement is restricted, as is any fore and aft movement.

So I’m feeling a bit frustrated by this today and feeling somewhat pessimistic about the whole exercise.
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Old 12-08-2018, 05:52 PM   #86
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Have you tried Sprat & Winkles? A trial kit maybe an idea. The bar goes across the buffers (Either just behind or across) and this enables locos and rolling stock to negotiate curves even as sharp as first radius. The bar is a thin wire and this is the wire the coupling attaches to. They work automatically via magnets. Wagons are the easiest to convert. Coaches take a little thought. For locos, you dont have to have the hook parts. Just a thin wire bar across the buffers.
With S&W's you can uncouple the coupling and push wagons into sidings and leave them there as they only couple if no magnet is present. If the magnet is present it pulls the hooks down and one can push the wagons and drop them off wherever you like.
While S&W's may not be for everyone, they are an impressive answer to the coupling problem.
Another plan is to make your own design of coupling, though it helps if one prefers manual coupling as they tend to be easier to make.

Something I will say is not to be disappointed as Everything is a learning curve. These couplings you have shown are good. OK, they have their shortcomings, and this information you have shared is very valuables to us all and this is why I (And others) have been looking with Interest as couplings are a fascinating subject that is one that interests me

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Old 12-08-2018, 06:01 PM   #87
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Although I have heard of them I’ve not researched them at all MG - but I will look into them. Thanks for the tip.
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Old 12-08-2018, 06:31 PM   #88
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Somewhere I have an old fret of them. The only reason why I have only tried them for a trial is that I wasn't organised enough to change all my stock. Also I have so much stock to convert I thought better of it as I'd have a couple of hundred items to convert.
It is a good idea to take a look at Spratt & Winkles being used. I believe Model Signal Engineering bought out S&W and since then Wizard Models bought out Model Signal Engineering. A quick in ternet search should show who supplies them today. They used to do a 32 coupling fret trial starter pack if I recall correctly.
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Old 12-08-2018, 06:56 PM   #89
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You are correct, it is Wizard that do them now. Sadly their website appears to lack a ‘how to’ page.
They are clearly economizing - the 32 trial fret is now only 8.

I have only looked very quickly but they appear to require a fair amount of modification to the wagons to get them to fit. More reading needed.
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Old 12-08-2018, 07:07 PM   #90
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The wagons are the easiest. The bar part fits across the buffers or some people make a smaller bar in an Π shape. The hook part is held on by two pieces of wire so all one needs to do is drill two holes and glue. Some wagons may need a slot for the coupling to raise which is a simple cut.
The hook part is basically free to move and balances from being suspended by the two wires (Which could be made into a Π shape but upsidown). It is easier to see then explain.
The more difficult ones to fit are coaches and locos. With coaches the bogies get in the way of the counter balance weight, so most beopel bend the weight in half to reduce the space it takes up. I did try a coach. With locos most people dont fit the hooks.
The way it works is a slightly more sophisticated upsidown hooked tension lock type of coupling except that the hook stops travel in both ways (Tension locks only stop travel in the pulling direction).
If you can find someone describing their operation on YouTube it will explain more.
The chain part is magnetic and resembles a 3 link coupling. This part is the part that the magnet pulls to uncouple the hooks.

Last edited by Mountain Goat; 12-08-2018 at 07:09 PM.
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