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Old 15-01-2017, 01:40 PM   #101
BR87
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There's some argument about the extra 2 on the back, as far as I have seen it written it's a 4-6-4 but others say it should be 4-6-2-2 or something like that.

I think don't quote me on it, I think it was the only one, with that arrangement, it was described as a behemoth haha, so pretty big then... There's some great footage although short on YouTube of it in 1930.

https://youtu.be/SYimriec57o?list=FL...FwKKhveIq_7r8g
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Old 15-01-2017, 03:32 PM   #102
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Hi
My understanding is that it is a 4-6-2-2. The second 4 , if a 4-6-4 would signify a 4-wheel bogie, which was not the case on this loco. At the rear it had a Cartazzi pair of wheels, followed by a 2-wheel bogie
Off-hand I cannot think of any other with these wheel arrangements, closest being the 4-6-4T on the L&Y and GSWR.
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Old 15-01-2017, 07:39 PM   #103
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Yes indeed I think the 4-6-2-2 is more correct, problem is LNER groups and info site say 4-6-4, but never mind who cares.
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Old 15-01-2017, 08:20 PM   #104
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Before I could solder on the running plate I needed to add some extra detail... well needed more rather I wanted to. Firstly at the front end, supplied with the kit the handrails at the front of the model were cast white metal and I doubt they would of lasted (probably hence the number of spares) I changed this to 0.8mm brass wire and soldered a hand rail knob to the top which looked a bit more sturdy and a bit more quality.

Secondly and I am not sure why, but my brain had the great idea of making an opening front smoke box or screens as they were called on the plans, when the Hush Hush was first built had a first door, (screen) where a slot below collecting cool air, which the actual smoke box door behind that. Also I feel that it will look better than a big white metal casting. Using some 0.5mm brass rod, to use it as a hinge on not only the loco but the door or screen to. Using some brass sheet bent over at the back to hang the screen or door on.




On the running plate, and underside of the boiler casting. On the running plate there are 2 lubricators one on each side, on the left side there is 4 / 5 pipes which I tend to model with brass wire, using photos and looking at others models. I firstly mark and drill holes in the location using photos as a guide, 3x behind the lubricator, 1x directly behind the apparatus on the running plate and one in the side of the frame under the boiler.
The brass 0.45mm wire was soldered in at the running plate end. and were shaped to reach the holes on the underside edge of the boiler. The wire was tacked together with solder till the running plate was soldered to the boiler barrel.

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Old 16-01-2017, 09:27 AM   #105
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I guess that most people (like me) simply count the Hush's rear wheels and call it 4-6-4 without knowing the Hush had two different "types" of rear wheel!

More nice detailing BR!
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Old 16-01-2017, 10:13 PM   #106
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Captain Bubble View Post
I guess that most people (like me) simply count the Hush's rear wheels and call it 4-6-4 without knowing the Hush had two different "types" of rear wheel!

More nice detailing BR!
Hi CB
Now you know what sort of rubbish is 'wandering around' inside my skull
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Old 17-01-2017, 11:49 AM   #107
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After the Christmas break I placed an order for some A4 Valve gear (X9321), this is due to the Hornby A3 mounting bracket having a step down of 1-1.5mm in it, which caused the linkage to the expansion link to point downwards when the wheels crank pin was at half past, using the A4 parts I believe this will fix that, and probably cause some more problems along the way.
As expected, the valve gear being raised caused problems mainly with the body shell, not wanting to do surgery on the body, I took a dremel to the bracket to cut away where the body was being held up. This was done successfully and the body now sat level on the chassis, meaning a test run was in order.



Taking a small break from the chassis as the next part will be quite hard work re-working the rear end to accommodate the trailing wheel sets / bogie.
So I move my attention to shaping the hand rails, the kit was kindly supplied with handrail knobs, the end holders were tacked in place to hold the wire and shape it so I could get the position right and also the shape. Once happy, I added the additional handrail knobs to the handrail and placed them in their respective holes, then soldered them to the handrail.
Then I turned my attention to the front end again, and added the lamp irons which are included in the kit part of the chassis etch.

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Old Today, 12:51 AM   #108
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A call in to Alan Gibson to order 3ft 2" , 10 spoke wheels for the front and rear of the loco was put in early January, which are expected around mid Jan due to illness, so while waiting the work continues...
With the wheels probably the next thing to show, I needed to start on the rear mounting for the rear wheel set, now being someone who likes using spares a lot, I used the drawings to buy a bogie with the same wheel spacing as I wanted something with pickups just to aid the model as It won't have tender pickups.
So I purchased a 2P bogie from Hornby direct as they were cheaper than everyone else, the wheel size is about 1mm bigger but these will be replaced when the new wheels turn up



So how do I mount it to the chassis? I made up a swing arm, using some brass sheet cut out to my measurements with a wide section at the rear with a slot to allow the bogie to move from side to side. The long section from the mounting point to the swing arm was laminated so another piece of brass on top just to strengthen it. This swing arm was made to fit the chassis where the plastic moulded section of plastic surrounding the trailing wheel set.

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Old Today, 12:52 AM   #109
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Other parts to arrive were from Peters Spares, the new sprung buffers produced by Markits, were a suitable better looking, than the white metal cast option, and although there is no real use to the sprung buffers, I add them more due to them being better looking and nicely turned. The front set will be soldered in to place where as on the tender they will be glued in place. Holes were enlarged on the front to 3mm, whilst the work was on going I also filled the screwlink hook hole which I will re-drill to fit a spare Hornby one I have hanging around.




Taking a break from the body of the model I turned my attention to the tender, I am not a fan of white metal tenders, as I have mentioned in the past, this is mainly due to their weight, and with the chassis trying to pull itself and the coaches it would be a lot of weight to pull and would certainly cut it's haulage

capacity. I hadn't planned on using the tender which came with the kit, due to it being the wrong one which I have read on various forums, as it's too wide, and with my spare Bachmann tender fitting the drawings I went with my spare.
I stripped down the tender removed the tampo printing, and all the hand rails as they were a fair bit over sized, so I have just replaced these with short versions, also removal of the buffers and replacing them with the Markits ones mentioned before.
There was some reshaping on the front of the tender which was easy enough to do, at a later date I will sort out a coupling system.

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