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Old 12-05-2016, 04:40 PM   #11
Steve M
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Teedoubleudee View Post
Yeah, already read that Ted thanks. I just wanted to see it done .

The only question I have now is: if these are brass you can't go hammering them away with a steel hammer or they will surely mis-shapen? I would use either a wooden mallet or a block of wood in front of the hammer.
TWD, trust me, they will slip into an 8mm hole without much more than a tap. Drill the hole, fit the two parts of the dowel together and push them both in at the same time, female side goes in first. Then if you do need to give it a tap, the male end is solid - you won't damage it and it will drive the female section through one frame and into the other.
If necessary use another male dowel as a drift to adjust the depth - remember that by drilling right through you can move the parts in and out so they are flush on the mating surfaces as you can get to both ends of both parts with the drift.
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Old 12-05-2016, 04:46 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve M View Post
TWD, trust me, they will slip into an 8mm hole without much more than a tap. Drill the hole, fit the two parts of the dowel together and push them both in at the same time, female side goes in first. Then if you do need to give it a tap, the male end is solid - you won't damage it and it will drive the female section through one frame and into the other.
If necessary use another male dowel as a drift to adjust the depth - remember that by drilling right through you can move the parts in and out so they are flush on the mating surfaces as you can get to both ends of both parts with the drift.
OK will give it a try, have just ordered some but not quite ready for them yet - on holidays next week
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Old 12-05-2016, 05:10 PM   #13
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Assuming they are the Bullet type of dowels I always add a drop of PVA glue to the hole before I tap in the dowel.

Best way I have found to fit them is ... Ensure the two baseboards are correctly alined and then clamp them securely together with at least two G clamps, recheck top is level again once clamped. Take an electric drill and a 3.5mm or 4mm dia drill bit and drill from the inside of one baseboard right through this boards side framing and part way or right through the second board. Do this for both dowels position. Remove G clamps and part boards. Fit a 7.5mm or 8mm dia drill bit into the electric drill and from the outside of each board drill out the previous made pilot hole to the larger size. Do this on both boards and both ends Control the drills depth as you drill and as above try not to exceed 1mm beyond the end of the dowel (Take depth needed from a dowel).. Apply neat PVA to a hole and tap in a dowel, do the same for the other three, ensuring a male is opposite a female! Once in place fit boards together and perfect alinement is obtained every time.

Don't allow the larger drill hole to go any deeper than the dowel plus about a mm or so, and try to prevent it going right through the side frame timber, but if it does add a short piece of 6mm ply or timber across the inside of the hole to block the hole off or the dowel can disappear into the side framing!
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Old 11-10-2016, 10:09 AM   #14
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Great tips, I am building my baseboard now and will be ordering these dowels, I am also going to need a hinged section ( I am getting to old to scramble underneath each board hence a modular layout) what type of hinges are best as I don't want any track to move when it's raised? Thanks Duncan
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Old 11-10-2016, 10:44 AM   #15
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Sorry if this has been covered in the past. Duncan
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Old 11-10-2016, 06:43 PM   #16
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I can't tell you which hinges are best but if you are using alignment dowels it shouldn't matter too much. You can use small bolts, like this http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2-1-2-65mm...UAAOSwd0BV107Y instead of dowels to maintain track alignment. Some people make their own from brass tube as rod.

Hinges do need to be raised above the the baseboard surface though to stop the rail ends from jamming together and bending as the hinged section is raised and lowered. There is drawing on Brian Lambert's site showing how the hinges are mounted on top of spacers. See http://www.brian-lambert.co.uk/Hints%20&%20Tips.html
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Old 11-10-2016, 10:49 PM   #17
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I've never used dowels as until my current layout the others were fixed to walls etc. This one I used the hinge method and it works fine.
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Old 11-10-2016, 11:37 PM   #18
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If you are going to be taking your boards down every few weeks then I can see that alignment dowels are very useful. I just clamped my boards together, perfectly aligned, and then drilled a 10mm hole through the adjoining frames, and placed a 10mm mushroom headed bolt, with large washers (on both sides), and tightened the nuts using a spanner - very tightly. The top surfaces are perfectly flat.
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Old 02-09-2017, 04:44 PM   #19
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Smile Newbie - Thanks for this thread

Just joined and you have already answered the question (first of many I am sure) I was about to ask. Thanks to all who posted.

Malcolm
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Old 02-09-2017, 05:42 PM   #20
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Thanks for the info. as I will need to do this in the future. I had got the coachbolts but not the dowels. I will now get them and prepare to drill holes.
Jim
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