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Old 22-08-2017, 04:24 PM   #11
Steve M
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I think you must have.

Have a look at this diagram from Brian Lambert. Points 4 and 5 are linked to move at the same time from the same switch.
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Old 22-08-2017, 04:43 PM   #12
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I guess I must have but re-reading through this page, it was a pretty big misunderstanding!

http://www.modelrailwayforum.co.uk/s...t=12184&page=3

I've done the PL-10s in series, but will change the cabling to wire them from the same swithc. It was mentioned in the thread that this is a waste of cable but I guess is the right way to do it?
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Old 22-08-2017, 04:54 PM   #13
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If its a short run, then it will be possible to change the series wiring to the required without scrapping too much. The idea behind running two separate sets of wires from switch to each motor is you have chosen a wire cable of dealing with the current level of one motor.
However for short distances this is less important so your existing series connection just move so that the joint is at the first point motor terminal and then connect all 4 common terminals together and complete the circuit.

ideally what you would do is run a larger cable to the first motor as its dealing with 2x current and then the normal size to the second as its only carrying 1x current the return is normally suggested to be of a larger size as it tends to run between all the common of the point motor and is therefore a longer run.
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Old 22-08-2017, 04:54 PM   #14
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I'm wondering if you have series (daisy chained connections) mixed up with Parallel?

You can have two methods of parallel connections. A) Is as per the drawing Steve provided with roughly equal lengths of wire coming from the one switch. So two wires per connection on the switch. This in my opinion is the best possible method and ensures as near as possible equal power to each motor.
The other method is B) Where two wires from the switch run to the first motor. then a second set of wires are tapped off these first motor connections and taken onto the next motor. Thereby linking motor 1 to motor 2 so as coil 1A is to coil 2A and coil 1B connects also to coil 2B. Still parallel connected but the slight down side is that the first motor can 'grab' most of the operating power and little is left to pass onto the second motor. However, 95% of the time this method works OK and both motors operate together.
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Old 22-08-2017, 05:01 PM   #15
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I use method B (above) for all my crossovers (two points together) and have never had a problem.
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Old 22-08-2017, 05:02 PM   #16
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If you are running the wires from the switch to each motor there is no need to have the wires at the same length, make them the required length to neatly fit the distance they need to go
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Old 22-08-2017, 05:05 PM   #17
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That really depends on the wire size and length of wire run to each motor!
Of course, if everyone used the correct wire sizes for feeds and return there wouldn't be any issues with solenoids in the first place.
Trouble is many use 7/0.2mm which is far too small for most solenoid applications, then say "But the model shop sold it as layout wire" Or you find the odd person pops up saying "Well my motors all work on bell wire or Cat 5 cable etc !!! " Its a lost cause often!
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Old 22-08-2017, 05:18 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Flashbang View Post
I'm wondering if you have series (daisy chained connections) mixed up with Parallel?
Yep! Absolutely - that's what I've done.

In case anyone's wondering ... it's doesn't work!!

As it happens, all my crossovers are pretty close to where the control boards will be so I'll probably just run cable from the switches, especially as they're all double throw.

Thanks for helping clear that pretty big misunderstanding up!
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Old 22-08-2017, 05:36 PM   #19
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You'll get there Ted. When I said loop of wire I meant one from each side of the motor to each side of the other motor. Sorry if I misled you.
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Old 22-08-2017, 05:54 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Walkingthedog View Post
You'll get there Ted. When I said loop of wire I meant one from each side of the motor to each side of the other motor. Sorry if I misled you.
No, don't worry at all. It's me still being a beginner with all things electrical.

The motor that was on the 'end' of the in series I had mistakenly set up appears not to throw in one direction now. Could I have broken it with that setup?

It does appear to get a little bit of power - I can feel an attempt to thrown the point, but it's weak and doesn't have enough clout to move it.

It's not a CDU recharge thing as I can move other points and I've given it enough recharge time.
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