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Old 04-02-2018, 10:33 AM   #271
Mountain Goat
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Here it is. It has wheels! It also sits with the roofline and steps at the bottom at heights where I want them to be. It runs nice and freely. Well worth the wait. From an 0 gauge toy to a 0-16.5 gauge model... (OK, toy. )
So now some paint, couplings and patience and all will be done.

I've also included pictures of the remains of the origional chassis which is wider and used to be longer before it lost its balconies.
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File Type: jpg IMG_20171208_152615.jpg (260.9 KB, 10 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_20180204_104146.jpg (222.5 KB, 10 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_20180204_104107.jpg (214.8 KB, 11 views)

Last edited by Mountain Goat; 04-02-2018 at 10:49 AM.
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Old 04-02-2018, 02:05 PM   #272
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They look good MG, well done. It goes to show what can be done with imagination and a few resources.
Jim.
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Old 05-02-2018, 08:33 PM   #273
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Thanks Mijj. Though I had the coach to work on for a Christmas present, it did cost 10 as a secondhand price before II started work on it. Not sure how much postage costs were.
All in, the cost to buy and convert have been somewhere around 16 to 18 at a guess. Certainly less then 20, which isn't too bad for a 7mm scale coach, so it fits the budget.
I've not factored in time taken to convert it to my requirements though... Where would I start?

Last edited by Mountain Goat; 05-02-2018 at 08:34 PM.
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Old 05-02-2018, 08:36 PM   #274
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Default Mountain Goats Wagon Works.

Hi MG brilliant work on a lovely looking coach.
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Old 06-02-2018, 12:14 AM   #275
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Thanks Shildon. A little more work to do before it is finished. Not much left to do now.
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Old 07-02-2018, 12:17 PM   #276
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Been reading through, interesting stuff MG, well done.


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Old 07-02-2018, 05:50 PM   #277
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Thanks Ed G. Lots more to do with future items as well. Always things to do!
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Old 22-02-2018, 09:59 AM   #278
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I've slowly been working on the coach preparing it for fitting couplings. To do this I have built up (Or rather down) some bufferbeams ready for the central buffers to be fitted onto. This has been made from thicker sheets of plasticard pieces formed and glued on one at a time. (Two at a time for the last two pieces at the bottom!) The bits that will be viewable I've spent time making them look OK. The behind the scenes bits I've been less fussy...
If anything I have deepened the buffer beam a piece of plasticard too deep, though I have done this to give it strength, as if I went too shallow and started drilling a pilot hole for the buffers, and I was very close to the edge of the bufferbeam itself, there is the possibility the buffer will come adrift due to heavy shunting. Even in model form, it is satisfying to hear the clash of metal buffers. Is why the other day when I had a pair of wagons out I pushed one into the other... Just for fun!
Apart from fitting the buffers (And making them first) and the coupling loops, I'm considering fitting some sort of flat metal weight I can glue under the centre of the chassis. Once painted it will look the part, and though the coach isn't that light, a slight extra weight will help should I decide to use it with a lengthy train on tight curves.
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Old 26-02-2018, 02:31 PM   #279
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Default COUPLINGS for 00 gauge modellers. (Will also work for 0 and N gauge).

Well, I've made my own cheap to make couplings in 7mm narrow gauge form, but what about those modelling in the standard gauges? Well, have a look at this link I will add below for a coupling design which is cheap to make (Pennies at the time I write this) and can be made to blend in. It is close coupling but can be made to negotiate first radius curves. The hook part can be made above or below (The right way up or upsidown) so is ideal for fitting to those items of rolling stock which may be difficult to fit to (E.g., something with bogies).
The coupling idea is not new though this has been modified and changed slightly from the origional idea which dates back to pre WW2 days in 4mm scale, and has likely been in use for longer in 7mm scale.

http://trains4africa.co.za/?p=544

Last edited by Mountain Goat; 26-02-2018 at 02:36 PM.
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Old 02-03-2018, 02:25 PM   #280
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I'm not quite sure if the next project will work, and that's all part of making things.
In the past when I have wired a handheld controller to run from a car battery or a smaller 12v battery, it has worked as if it were on an AC 18v current from a transformer. Now when I needed to test a loco with something with a bit more "Oomph" to it then the Hornby trainset controller can give, I decided to use my panel controller with a supply via a little 12v sealed battery, as I dont have a transformer at hand. (I may have somewhere! Is more of a case I dont have one I can think of).
The main issue is that when I tried the panel controller my trains ran slower then expected, probably due to the rectification in the controller etc.
Now putting aside an overload protection for a moment, if I wired a loco direct to my 12v battery, the locomotives motor would run flat out, so it is more then possible to use my little battery on my layout.
The solution is for me to build my own controller using bits and pieces lying around. I have the remains of an old Triang control knob so I will make a start from there and see how I get along. I plan to use a 12v bulb as overload protection. I will need to work out what wattage rating bulb I need. The basic idea is that the bulb is wired in series, and the bulb takes more power to run then the locomotive does, so the locomotive runs and the bulb does not light. It acts as a connecting wire. If I have a short on the track, all the power heads to the bulb, and the bulb illuminates, thus protecting the battery from having a dead short.
Now if I use a bulb that has a too low wattage the bulb will illuminate and the trains won't run that well.
If the bulb has a too high wattage rating, even my little battery won't have the oomph to illuminate it and I will get a flat battery in a short space of time!
I seem to remember someone using a 15 watt automotive bulb? I may start with a 5 watt. I have to find where I put the socket to take my bulb.

Here is the start in picture form of my attempt to make a controller. So far, I have cut my spare PCB to the correct size ready to form the panel bit of my controller. Ive drilled the centre ready to install the Triang control knob, and I am removing the areas of copper from the PCB board so the new controller will do what it is supposed to do. More to follow...
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