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Old 04-05-2018, 10:18 PM   #21
Walkingthedog
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Now if you had used the timer you could have pressed the shutter release, ran down the stairs over to your house and been on your backscene.
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Old 05-05-2018, 10:12 AM   #22
Bunkerbarge
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Well just a bit of an update to bring us just about up to date. Since I last wrote I finished the backscene on the north wall but had a problem yet again with the same piece. The challenge stems from the fact that I have to make a deep cut out to go around a piece of wood on the wall so the backscene ends up very weak and flexible at that point. I ended up again with a bad joint but decided this time to hide the joint with cunningly placed scenery later. This piece also of course then threw the last piece out as well so I have two bad joints to hide.

After that I completed the two upper level loops of track and have been frequently testing it since. The straights could be better but being fitted at arms length were never going to be easy. The rolling stock all seems to work fine apart from the Hornby L1, which seems to have a reputation anyway. From what I can see on line the front pony truck is a well known challenge and quite why Hornby are still selling it is completely beyond me. They are well aware that this locomotive has challenges rendering it almost useless yet they still continue to take people's money for them.

Anyway the track incorporates two crossovers between the loops on the north side with the pairs of points being operated from a single channel. I also have the two points fitted to connect to the lower levels at a later date and a point to a loco shed siding line and a goods shed siding line. The goods shed will fill up a corner but I thought it simply looked odd with a buffer behind it as I am sure that trains will be filled as they file through the shed for its full length. I decided to cheat by using a tunnel entrance to give the impression of a much longer siding and the best way of achieving this seemed to be by knocking around some Will's kits. Fitting it into a curved backscene took a bit of doing. It remains a separate piece for now until the painting and scenery pieces are added.

Another thing that has absorbed a lot of time is the playing around with the building of the loco shed. I liked the LCC kits so put one of those together and added some detail in the form of quoins to cover the corners, fans in the gable ends a piece of platform inside along one side, guttering and drainpipes and some signage. I have played around with this on a test board and added a platform, also from LCC with some additional stiffening, and a coal office. For that I didn't like the wooden staithes supplied with the coal office so I made my own from wood stock. The derrick is a ratio kit and the water tower is a Backmann ready made item, both to be finished painting, detailing and weathering. The stores/office/canteen is a cheap Hornby coach removed from its wheels, mounted on a wooden frame and weathered up.When I am happy with everything they will be transferred to the layout after the goods yard in the corner has been done.

A big challenge has been the operation of the crossovers, which regularly fail and then throw the pair into an uncoordinated mess, which takes a long time to reset. I can only think the challenge comes from the 0.8 mm brass rod I have used to operate them, which maybe causes them to stick occasionally. I must admit I am not as happy with the look of them as I had hoped so I might try for a less obtrusive and more reliable connection to the point or I might try some plastic sleeving and piano wire arrangements instead and then use plastic points rodding kits to hide them. I have some 1mm OD x 0.5 mm ID plastic tubing and some 0.46 mm piano wire, which fits perfectly.

When everything is eventually working reliably the electronics will be boxed in with softwood and a hinged cover fitted which will have scenic items on top of them to hide them.
Attached Images
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Last edited by Bunkerbarge; 05-05-2018 at 01:05 PM. Reason: Post of same topic merged
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Old 05-05-2018, 04:44 PM   #23
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Wow, you are really cracking on! How much time do you spend each day?
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Old 05-05-2018, 05:11 PM   #24
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Looks excellent, very neat.
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Old 05-05-2018, 06:04 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Michael P View Post
Wow, you are really cracking on! How much time do you spend each day?
It looks a bit condensed at the moment as that is nearly a years work there. Mind you I did start off with a bare room so I've done everything from nothing and usually get about an hour or two a day in or so. Some days more some days I miss. I also play around with buildings and things in the evening when the missis is watching the TV so I am at least sat with her rather than locked away in the railway room.
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Old 04-07-2018, 12:23 AM   #26
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My track laying for this project leaves a lot to be desired in many ways, based mainly on my lack of experience. I have used a track base that, I now realise, is far too thin, planning on the supports to stiffen it, which they haven't sufficiently, and the main baseboards are cheap fabricated household doors, which are nowhere near as strong as I had hoped they would be. I have decided that strategically placed solid wood boarding will consolidate everything sufficiently.

Techniques for laying and fixing could have been better but one of my biggest mistakes was not leaving sufficient thermal expansion gaps. Being an engineer this is inexcusible but it never occurred to me when I was laying the track. In the recent very hot spell a section of track, which passes a West facing window, has deformed alarmingly so I had to go about rectifying it but that then begs the question of just how big a gap should I leave?

Going back to school the old thermal expansion formula is basically:

Change in length = Original Length x Coefficient of expansion ( Original temperature - New Temperature)

My longest straights are around 2.5 meters and, assuming the coldest it is likely to be in winter of say 15 deg C and the hottest in Summer of say 25 deg C and assuming the Coeficient of Expansion for Stainless Steel of 0.000016 this falls into place as follows:

Change in length = 2.5 x 0.000016 (25-15), = 0.0004 m, or 0.4 mm. So, to be safe, I have to allow for half a millimeter expansion on all the main straights. On the straight in question I have trimmed back an additional chair on the sleeper, slid back the fishplate, removed the track pins, lifted the track end and filed the end of the track to give a half a millimeter gap when it is replaced. I then dropped it back and slid the fishplates back into position.

The next job was how to ensure that the straights were going to be actually perfectly straight as my initial attempts with track pins were not as perfect as I would have wanted. I purchased a metre length of finished carbon steel, 16 mm x 20 mm cross section. I dropped this onto a spare section of track and slid a piece of 2mm x 2mm plastic angle strip, which just happens to have a thickness of 0.5 mm, down between the steel bar and the track. I ran superglue along its length. When it had set I removed it and glued the underside as well so I now had a solid steel former precisely 16.5 mm wide and 20 mm high. This holds the track perfectly straight for a meter and has sufficient weight to keep the track level while leaving the edge of the sleepers available to glue. So now I can drop my former onto a straight section, glue and ballast the outside of the sleepers then, when set, remove the former and ballast the centre section of the track.

I am now working towards lovely straight sections with suitable expansion gaps that won't do this on a hot day!
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Old 04-07-2018, 12:18 PM   #27
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I too forgot about expansion gaps - gulp! I have to ensure the blinds are closed all day when its sunny - this also avoids fading. Pity I left my jelly snakes in the car the other day!
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Old 04-07-2018, 01:42 PM   #28
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Bb put a credit card between each section of track. It only has to expand a minute amount for extreme buckling.
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Old 04-07-2018, 02:59 PM   #29
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Quote:
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Bb put a credit card between each section of track.
Got a spare one WTD? Could do with a bit of spending!

A cut up business card or bits of post card are also ideal as temporary spacers when track laying, placed edge on in between the abutting rails with its edge laying on top of the fishplate while the tracks are pinned, which ideally needs to be carried out when the room is around 20 to 22 degrees C.

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I too forgot about expansion gaps - gulp! I have to ensure the blinds are closed all day when its sunny - this also avoids fading. Pity I left my jelly snakes in the car the other day!
Carefully slice right through the rails somewhere in between sleepers. Use a Dremel etc with metal slitting disk or a Razor saw as both will give around a 1mm gap. Then either bond across the cut on the outside of the rail with a piece of flexible wire soldered to the abutting rails outer webs or add a pair of droppers to feed the rails after the cuts.
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Old 04-07-2018, 04:20 PM   #30
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Iíll post you a couple FB
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