Model Railway Forum

Go Back   Model Railway Forum > Model Railway Construction > Wiring & Electronics


Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 13-04-2018, 12:54 PM   #11
Tinker
Motive Power Supervisor
 

Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: N W Norfolk
Posts: 2,322
Tinker is on a distinguished road
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Flashbang View Post
5mm dia LEDs are quite large. It may be worth considering 3mm ones?
Examples... Link 1
Dont forget these will need a series resistor and depending on your LED power supply voltage (often 12v) a 1K (1000 Ohm) will be fine Example.. Link 2
Mounts (from China) Link 3
All of mine are run from the Cobalts Digitals i will sort out your diagram for the Resistors and Diodes if the Op goes that route.
.
Tinker is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 16-04-2018, 04:52 AM   #12
collectors
Member
 

Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: West Norfolk
Posts: 68
collectors is on a distinguished road
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Flashbang View Post
5mm dia LEDs are quite large. It may be worth considering 3mm ones?
Examples... Link 1
Dont forget these will need a series resistor and depending on your LED power supply voltage (often 12v) a 1K (1000 Ohm) will be fine Example.. Link 2
Mounts (from China) Link 3
Basic wiring using Seep PM1 motors....
Hi, thanks for the info & diagram, but is the diagram showing a separate power supply for the led's using the volt free switch on the PM-1 Seep Point Motor. The problem there is i am using that switch to feed the frog on the points. So, could i still use this diagram, but instead of the 12v psu shown in your diagram & it would then be feed from the dcc rails to light the led's. I realise the resister values would change, but would this be ok?

Thanks.
collectors is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 16-04-2018, 06:37 AM   #13
collectors
Member
 

Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: West Norfolk
Posts: 68
collectors is on a distinguished road
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Tinker View Post
All of mine are run from the Cobalts Digitals i will sort out your diagram for the Resistors and Diodes if the Op goes that route.
.

Ah! a man with a larger budget than i. lol.The Colbalts will be a different story to what might work for me, but thanks for the info.
collectors is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 16-04-2018, 08:28 AM   #14
Steve M
Contrarian
 
Steve M's Avatar
 

Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Rochester, Kent
Posts: 3,912
Steve M is on a distinguished road
Default

Chris, as you have discovered the single switch on the Seep means you can only have one function - frog polarity or LEDs.

But there is a relatively inexpensive way round the problem.

The switch can be unreliable so it is best relegated to a low risk function. Use the switch for controlling the LEDs. I wouldn’t recommend using the DCC power in the rails for two reasons, any power spike or interference could affect the clarity of the DCC signal to the locos.
Secondly, if your DCC system is relatively low powered, say 1.5amps, then you quickly run out of power if you have more than two locos running - I know from experience on this one. So power your LEDs from a separate 12v dc supply, they are cheap and easy to obtain.
In answer to an earlier question, 3mm LEDs are perfect for a mimic board, and yes you will need a resistor for each led.

Now back to frog polarity, go for an electronic autofrog such as the Gaugemaster DCC80. These ‘sense’ any short circuit and instantly flip to the correct polarity. They are cheap and they work.
__________________
I'm not arguing with you, I'm explaining why you are wrong.
Steve M is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 16-04-2018, 09:34 AM   #15
Steve M
Contrarian
 
Steve M's Avatar
 

Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Rochester, Kent
Posts: 3,912
Steve M is on a distinguished road
Default

This resistor calculator may help as well.

http://led.linear1.org/led.wiz
__________________
I'm not arguing with you, I'm explaining why you are wrong.
Steve M is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 16-04-2018, 09:35 AM   #16
Flashbang
Administrator
 
Flashbang's Avatar
 

Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: SE UK
Posts: 8,297
Flashbang will become famous soon enough
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by collectors View Post
Hi, thanks for the info & diagram, but is the diagram showing a separate power supply for the led's using the volt free switch on the PM-1 Seep Point Motor. The problem there is i am using that switch to feed the frog on the points. So, could i still use this diagram, but instead of the 12v psu shown in your diagram & it would then be feed from the dcc rails to light the led's. I realise the resister values would change, but would this be ok?

Thanks.
For DC (Analogue) you cannot use the frog polarity switch for indications if its already dedicated to frog switching duties, as the voltage varies zero to maximum nominally 12v DC and also reverses too.

For DCC (Digital) layout you can share the frog polarity feed to both switch frog polarity and feed LEDs. See Link 1 to DCC fed indications.
The drawing on page 1 of this topic can not be used as shown for frog and LED operation without it being modified.

For those with DC layouts with Seep motors then I suggest obtaining the Gaugemaster GM500 which has two separate switched sets of contacts and can feed frog via one set and indication via the other. A suitable 12 volt regulated power supply can be obtained fairly cheaply too for around 5.00 Note; GM500 are often cheaper form other retailers and even more cheaper if three packs are obtained. Or make your own form a few components for about 3 each! Link 2
__________________
Broken? It was working when I left it!

Last edited by Flashbang; 16-04-2018 at 11:07 AM. Reason: Edit text to correct statement
Flashbang is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 28-04-2018, 11:48 PM   #17
JonMiles
Junior Member
 

Join Date: Jul 2017
Posts: 17
JonMiles is on a distinguished road
Default

I was originally looking at the block signalling method but found that it did not do what I needed.

Instead, I went down the Arduino route to control both the points and the mimic panel.

This runs totally separately from the DC power for the track and uses 3mm LEDs relays and both momentary switches (points) and on-off switches (isolation sidings).

I have used: Arduino, CDU, relays and pm1 point motors. as my boards are modular, it meant I only needed to run 5v and milliamps between the main board and mimic panel. I also have a Bluetooth link thrown in there too, I was experimenting!
JonMiles is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 29-04-2018, 06:32 AM   #18
collectors
Member
 

Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: West Norfolk
Posts: 68
collectors is on a distinguished road
Default

Thanks for all the replies. I am going down the route of a CC Concepts SX 8 for the points & the local LED as this has all the facilities for control of frog/LED/motor & will free up the seep volt free switch for my other LEDs. I asked at CC Concepts if i could run more LED'd of their SX8 unit & they said unfortunately, no.
collectors is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Bookmarks



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump



All times are GMT +1. The time now is 04:03 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.3
Copyright ©2000 - 2018, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.