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Old 03-03-2018, 08:35 AM   #11
yelrow
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STeve, looks heavier, than it is, obviously. Main reason for the perspex, was to give light, and allow one to see the trains on the tier underneath. From that point of view, it works a treat. I like the idea of storing trains this way, especially with my thumbs. Need to give it a bit of thought. thanks. john
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Old 03-03-2018, 08:40 AM   #12
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The most important thing with a traverser is to have it rigid enough to align the tracks accurately every time.
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Old 03-03-2018, 08:54 AM   #13
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Back to copper clad sleepers. I have 3 lift up tracks already, (door access), 2 x 00, 1xN.. john
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Old 03-03-2018, 11:58 AM   #14
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Smile Thank you everyone for the very helpful comments

I confirm I am modelling in OO. As the layout is permanent, not portable, weight is not too much of an issue - rigidity is! If necesary I can always supplement the wall brackets (good quality adjustable shelving brackets) with legs at the front of the board. That said I have not needed to do this in respect of the main scenery boards. I am planning on placing some hand sized access holes in the support board - positions to be determined once runners and shelf supports and the one point are determined. The shelf supports will be at set intervals as I am screwing into the support timbers of a plasterboard wall - studs already determined by ceramic magnets!

Woodwork not being my favourite occupation I am planning on buying an 8x4 sheet of ply from the local B&Q and getting them to do most of the cutting on their machine - apart from anything else it will aid getting the sheet in the car! I found it particularly helpful to note B&Q runners are 12mm deep - will take a steel rule with me to make sure I get the right ones.

Now just waiting for the beast from the east to abate and the thaw to set in so I can undertake my journey to B&Q easily.

Thanks again everyone.
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Old 03-03-2018, 12:46 PM   #15
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Peter, just make sure that all cuts are perfectly square and the runners are fitted perfectly parallel to the ends and themselves or it will bind up.
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Old 03-03-2018, 04:27 PM   #16
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Will do - another reason for getting the B&Q machine to do the cutting - more likely to keep things square than my efforts on a garden bench! Will obviously check is square before assembling.
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Old 12-03-2018, 07:01 PM   #17
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I am now well advanced on my Traverser. It is constructed of sheets of 12mm ply and is heavy but as the layout is permanently attached to the walls this is not a problem - it is rigid and square and the Traverser board travels smoothly with no binding or slop. One problem I have encountered however is in respect of the bolts used to hold the Traverser in position (it is a 4 track Traverser.) The present B&Q efforts permit too much for and aft movement meaning additional effort is needed to align the tracks finally by eye. The problem is that the bolt pins have too much slop in the barrel and receiver. I have been back to B&Q but all the bolts similarly seem too sloppy. Obviously this would not be a great problem in conventional use of the bolts but is a problem if one is trying to accurately align code 75 track work!

Is anyone aware of a source of bolts with less slop? Alternatively any suggestions for a more accurate form of latching? As my layout is DCC the latching device is not required to play any part in electrical connection / switching.
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Old 12-03-2018, 07:17 PM   #18
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Peter, you won’t be surprised to learn that I had the same problem!
On my OO version I now align it by eye (it doesn’t move out of position on its own) and just have one bolt to lock the slide in place when I need to transport it anywhere.
Different solution on the N version though. I bought two bolts and some 8mm threaded rod - which is too tight to fit as it stands. I drilled out the short bolt ‘receivers’ to 8mm making the rod a tight fit. I then removed the handle from the original bolt and drilled out a hole in the threaded rod to fit it to.
I’ll put up a picture later.
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Old 12-03-2018, 08:50 PM   #19
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Photo as promised.

20180312_193512 by Steve Mumford, on Flickr
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Old 12-03-2018, 08:53 PM   #20
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It's good to know I am not alone in experiencing the the problem. Your idea of the threaded rod sounds interesting. A local aircraft modelling shop sells a range of brass tubing - I was thinking of seeing if I could find a suitable size to line the bolt barrel and receiver.
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