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Old 02-04-2017, 05:43 PM   #11
Tinker
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From memory the 8 by 4 sheets are 1220mm X 2440, so the boards are made up to UK feet and inches but timber lengths are metric which makes them a bit short......
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Old 02-04-2017, 08:11 PM   #12
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Quote:
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From memory the 8 by 4 sheets are 1220mm X 2440, so the boards are made up to UK feet and inches but timber lengths are metric which makes them a bit short......
Yes, that would explain it. So it mattered not where I got the ply. Oh woe is the woodtrade . In the motor industry we were metric with capacity of an engine (cc) but worked out power in bhp. We could always do the conversion to Watts of course but peeps understood bhp. As they say, nowt as queer as folk.
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Old 04-04-2017, 11:49 AM   #13
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Quote:
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... Anyway the baseboard is done apart from the legs so I'll get tidying up tomorrow or the day after. The first section I did will need something to stabilise it as it wobbles with all the legs with the same orintation. Something I could easily alter if I had not glued them - or perhaps you know different? I used No-More-Nails.
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Just a thought, but maybe adding in extra legs at right angles to the current ones in each corner would sort out the wobble? That way you would have 2 sides of a box in each corner as legs, adding rigidity. Wouldn't require getting rid of the current ones/fighting the No More Nails! Not sure if it would work, as I say just a thought.

Looking good though!

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Old 04-04-2017, 12:04 PM   #14
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The legs need adjustable feet.
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Old 04-04-2017, 03:37 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DomMorris View Post
Just a thought, but maybe adding in extra legs at right angles to the current ones in each corner....
Thanks, I'm sure that'd work fine. I'll try that.
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Looking good though!
Dom
Thanks.
Yes WTD, it will need something to even up the floor of the garage as my lads used it to hammer things straight when Dad was not about . There are pockets of pits all over . Mind you I do intend insulating the floor eventually, but it will still need evening out.
Jim
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Old 12-04-2017, 07:55 PM   #16
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I have completed the modification of the legs, ( as suggested by Don) and added an extra strip of wood to each leg as advised and it is now very stable. I had to fit the extra legs on the five foot straight so to house the ex-dining room cubes donated by SWMBO underneath I have removed the inside leg. This will allow me to have most things (modelling tools etc.) to hand. If all goes I well might get the RH side done tomorrow. Have put a photo below for the image junkies, ignore the leg which is askew, I'll deal with that tomorrow - I'm an image junkie myself so know they go down well .
Jim.
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Old 13-04-2017, 12:00 PM   #17
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A question from me (I know nutting about railway sites etc.). I have Hornby freight sets (DCC) and those include the rails. If I go to the Peco site (as advised by Paul 1066) will they be compatible with the Hornby seat rails?
I am hoping to complete the legs on the RHS of the baseboard today and will next look to the layout.
Jim
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Old 13-04-2017, 12:03 PM   #18
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Seat rails???????
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Old 13-04-2017, 12:27 PM   #19
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Seat rails???????

He he, set rails . Who typed that I wonder ?
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Old 13-04-2017, 12:37 PM   #20
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Peco Code 100 track - All of their Setrack range and Streamline which is code 100 (not Fine scale Code 75) will connect directly to Hornby track. The rails are the same profile of Code 100. Sleepers are a different colour Hornby to Peco. Hornby and Peco Setrack points are virtually identical and should be interchangeable.
Also remember that all Streamline track is to a different and closer spacing between track centres than Setrack/Hornby (50mm compared to 67mm) formed by the two straight tracks when two points are placed together to make a crossover. Also the footprint of Streamline points are to a larger size than Hornby or Peco Setrack. Streamline turnout curves have a much larger radius too. Streamline has no metal rail joiners pre fitted unlike Setrack/Hornby items.
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