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Old 30-11-2017, 04:11 PM   #41
drlodge
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That B&Q stuff looks similar to YBS airtec double, as above its not really a good insulator; it will provide a seal and reflect some heat back into the house so it'll work as insulation to some extent. I've used it in my loft with 70mm PIR insulation behind it in between the rafters. Its better than nothing...
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Old 30-11-2017, 04:48 PM   #42
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Regarding any plastic based insulation used in a domestic loft such as PIR, Celotex and similar.......home owners should be made aware that whilst the product is labelled as Fire Retardant (as a result of small scale testing) it will create a far more intense fire once fully ignited as markedly demonstrated recently at Grenfell House......the toxic fumes are lethal so, frankly, no house should employ this type of product in the loft and especially not as a baseboard for a model railway with lots of electrickery around......but one has to weigh up the risk as with everything........HB
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Old 27-02-2018, 11:42 AM   #43
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Interesting thread. What strikes me about building in the loft is many people just seem to hoy a load of wood into their loft without the consideration of the extra weight and what it is doing to their bedroom ceilings. Ive seen You Tube vids of people fully boarded floor in the loft, very substantial baseboards and supports plus not to mention anything between 1 and maybe two 11 to 15 stone blokes walking around in there without a thought. One guy even had to abandon the build because his joists were being pulled away from the main supports and brickwork. Mind you, he had used what looked like garden deck planks and very heavy MDF boards!

I know some of these people go the house was built pre 1960s so its very sturdy but is it? My house was built in 1996 and even I was wary putting 4 packs of tongue and groove board down as storage platforms.
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Old 27-02-2018, 01:33 PM   #44
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Good points about all the wood weight, I boarded my loft and those chipboards loft-boards are very heavy indeed, as was the plasterboard

My ceilings being a bungalow are well supported by all the solid internal walls, but do consider if your ceilings are going to take the load.

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Old 27-02-2018, 01:34 PM   #45
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Centenary I've suffered the exact opposite having removed all the water tanks from the loft and first floor when the boiler was updated has meant the roof has moved up. As proven by the gap that has appeared. Sadly its also given me a slight hump at a point on the baseboard too
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Old 03-03-2018, 03:13 PM   #46
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chris_db4 View Post
Centenary I've suffered the exact opposite having removed all the water tanks from the loft and first floor when the boiler was updated has meant the roof has moved up. As proven by the gap that has appeared. Sadly its also given me a slight hump at a point on the baseboard too
Ah the change to a condensing boiler I presume? Yeah, never thought about taking weight out could cause problems!
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Old 03-03-2018, 04:23 PM   #47
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I think it is 'combination' boiler that dispenses with the need for water tanks, but it is of course condensing as well...............HB
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Old 09-03-2018, 08:20 PM   #48
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My house was built in 1902 ,my loft is a good size when we had the roof done they put new purlins in approx 3 times bigger than the original ones so weight was not an issue .The weather is can be the antartic or the tropics
i am lucky re my layout with size and access i had thought of changing the complete shape but i haven`t got heart to tear it down now, i just keep `tweaking` bits
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Old 09-03-2018, 08:52 PM   #49
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@eagle125..........the larger purlins have got nothing to do with the weight you are putting on the floor.........if you are walking on ceiling joists without suitable extra strengthening then you are in danger of deflecting the ceilings below.......floor joists are 200mm (8 inch) for a reason.......just saying ......HB
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Old 09-03-2018, 10:55 PM   #50
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@eagle125, it is a great space indeed
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