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Old 03-10-2015, 07:44 PM   #1
BR87
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Keyser kit, LBSC K-Class Mogal



after some time I have been after an LBSC K-Class 2-6-0 mogul, after some difficultly with some people when trying to purchase one, I finally managed to acquire one.
This is an old K's kit or Keyser kit, these kits were a great idea at the time, a full kit white metal kit, brass plate frames, motor, gears, etched connection rods, and wheels.

Great idea, but sadly they were poorly executed, shame that no-one picked up the idea and improved upon it. The main issues with these kits were the motors, which ran very hot and failed, I had one which event caught fire, the wheels were very poor quality and over time become rusty which then effect the running.

This is how the kit arrived, all the parts are with it, including a different cab roof, safety valve housing, dome, and chimney. Overall the kit is put together quite well and has been glued together with Araldite.
I generally go round the model making a list of items that need replacement, or improving. I will hopefully finish this in SR olive green.




So what to change?
- Chassis
- New wheels, driving and pony truck
- New motor and gearbox with flywheel*
- Add etched detail brakes and rigging.*
- Improve power pickups.*


- Body
- Safety valves turned round
- handrails and knobs.*
- Sprung buffers*
- Improve cab detail
- Make the tender lighter
- Add lamp irons*


Most of the electrical parts, motor gearbox, copper sheet, ect... also on the detailing side buffers and handrail wire, lamp irons ect... which saves some money which always helps. As the project develops I will probably add things as I go along, which is usually problematic.

Last edited by BR87; 03-10-2015 at 07:46 PM.
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Old 03-10-2015, 07:46 PM   #2
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After taking measurements from the wheels and also checking against the actual full size loco measurements and scaling the back to 4mm size, I ordered a Gibson 3ft 6" pony truck wheel, this was purchased from mainly trains, for the driving wheels I ordered 22mm 18 spoke driving wheels in the real world that's 5ft 6", these were ordered from scale link.
When ordering axles beware of the measurements, they can be a bit miss leading. You should order for OO, 16.5mm gauge, with 14.5mm back to back.



Firstly I stripped the chassis down so I could assess it, generally the chassis was put together pretty well, but it is just 2 plates of brass screwed together with spacers in the middle. So first step was to strip the chassis back to brass, and mark out for the mounting of brake blocks.
I am using some etched brake blocks from Mainly Trains which have LBSC, LSWR and SECR style brake blocks (MT182) or (MT173 Sadly no longer available)
0.8mm brass rod is used to hang the brake blocks and hangers on, these are then soldered together, and it would be wise to check spacing between wheel and block so no shorting can happen.

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Old 03-10-2015, 07:55 PM   #3
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A few additional items are required for this kit, the model I assume never had much cab detail or castings, using a different motor to what was seen above allows me a little more room to play with for the cab. I put a call in to 247 developments, to order a medium backhead casting for a belpair firebox, I will attempt to modify the casting to look like the back head of a K-Class loco. Also missing was a screw reverser, I don't have many images to hand to see what the closest is, but from what I have seen the closest I could find is a Markits LM/BR reverser (M4Rev/LM) these items cost around 10.




I will change a number of features on the back head, add some water gauges and handles, and also additional pipe work, as well as a regulator handle. I shall undertake this a but further on in the build process.
Back to the chassis, the wheels and axles were assembled and the brake rigging and blocks adjusted to fit the wheels, the main chassis was slightly lengthened to accept the front row of brake blocks. With the new wheels fitted and the middle and rear brakes fitted you can see the improvement to the chassis. The brass rod on the front of cylinder is to replace the slightly damaged white metal ones, made from 1.8mm brass rod, 1.8mm hole drilled in the middle of the front of the cylinder and glued in place.



After finishing the chassis, and soldering all the bearings instead of glue which was holding them in place, it was about time to look at fitting the motor and gearbox, these were obviously designed to fit this kit so some changes and modifications are needed.
The motor and gearbox sit quite low in the chassis, so a small V is cut in the chassis to accommodate the motor, luckily the body and firebox needed not to much modification to accommodate the flywheel and gearbox.
The V cut on the chassis was cut with a dremel cutting disc, and the body changes were made with a small barrel sander, as some material was required to be removed to allow the flywheel to spin freely and to enable the gearbox to fit.

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Old 03-10-2015, 08:18 PM   #4
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A couple of smaller adjustments to the body, the pipe going to the smoke-box on the left hand side has been removed, and reshaped, also adjusted is the safety valve housing on top of the firebox which was placed the wrong way round. So this casting was removed and repositioned.

Some work has already started on fitting out the cab, from very limited images of the cab of a K, and also using some images from live steam scale model to see the placement of items, splashers in the cab has been made from plasticard, and the stand for the reverser made from the same plasticard. You can see the back head has started to be changed, installment of water gauges, regulator handle and various handles to be fitted.




On the underside you can see that progress has been made on the detail on the brake rigging. All the brakes are now soldered together with a 2 sections of 0.45mm brass wire. Towards the rear of the loco under the cab where the brake cylinder would be, a bracket has been made from plasticard and 1.8mm brass rod, a small 0.5mm hole has been made to accept the wire from the brakes. This will not be soldered to allow the chassis to be removed.
The sanding pipes have been fitted also, 0.8mm holes have been drilled in the 4 sandbox castings and the rods glued in place. At the front, 2 plasticard blocks have been glued behind the cylinders to hold the front sanding pipes.




Once all the pipe work has been bent in to shape and trimmed so not making contact with the wheels, I moved on to re modelling the front pony truck and also the guard irons at the front, which were soldered to the main frames so if I attached a coupling to the pony track then it would not move from side to side.
So the guard irons were removed, and the bogie swing arm was well err... broken off. Anyway moving on, I fabricated a new thinner swing arm from the nickel silver plate which I glued to the underside of the pony truck. I added a 2mm piece of plasticard on the top of the bogie which overhangs the front end. 3mm wide 0.3mm deep depression was made in the top of the plasticard to take the new guard irons.

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Old 04-10-2015, 07:50 AM   #5
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Fascinating read and good illustrative photos, great project, thanks for sharing!

You mentioned wheels rusting which made me think of Jade Oil (available from Axminster). Obviously this should not go on electrically conductive surfaces, but could be useful to give some protection to other areas. It does not last as long as Acrylic lacquer or similar, so needs occasional re-coating, but does have a more natural look.
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Old 04-10-2015, 10:51 AM   #6
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Yes tried some of this before on another K's kit sadly didn't work, only thing I found did work was something from Halfords sadly they have discontinued it which was a shame as it certainly got rid of deep pitted rust, Spending 30 + on a new wheel set may be pricey but it's easier in the long run to maintain.
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Old 04-10-2015, 11:20 AM   #7
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And just arrived whilst while writting this and while still on the chassis I ordered some castings for springs for the chassis as you can see on the image above, it doesn't have any. The castings although meant for a goods van, are well suited for mounting on to the chassis.


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Old 04-10-2015, 11:28 AM   #8
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Now most of the work done to the chassis is now pretty much there apart, from the wiring and electronic pickups, and just small parts to change on the body, focus can now turn to the tender.
The tender especially on these white metal kits are the downfall on these kits because they are a solid lump of white metal in tow behind the loco, which means most of its traction is spent just pulling the tender around, so it needs to go on a diet, so loosing some weight, originally the tender weighed in at just over 200 grams.




Now it looks quite severe but it was needed, loosing 120 grams off the tender will help the models haulage capacity, The cut out sections from the sides, back and also the coal space will be replaced with plasticard sections. The remainder of the paint will be removed, and new detail pars will be added.




A few sanding processes were undertaken on the tender to ensure it's level and smooth to ensure best paint finish. The rest of the paint was removed using good old Dettol (the brown stuff) leaving it in there for 24 hours.

I have now started adding details to the loco front end, Gibson parallel sprung buffers, and also a nice brass turned smoke-box dart to replace the cast one, which I do quite a bit if it's cast or moulded in plastic.

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Old 04-10-2015, 12:12 PM   #9
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Jade Oil does not cure rust/oxidation but helps to prevent it forming on clean bare metal.

Good project, look forward to seeing it finished and working.
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Old 04-10-2015, 02:44 PM   #10
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Ah ok, well shouldn't be an issue with the new ones hopefully.
There's plenty more projects which sadly I cannot post due to being in magazines.

http://bluebell-railway.webs.com/projectspage.htm
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2-6-0, k's kits, k-class, lbsc, southern



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