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Old 09-05-2018, 10:44 AM   #11
yelrow
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Well now, Steve, just shows we can learn new things, every day. There were 14 points, in my layout, ALL, with Springy things, so have 27, ish, somewhere, safe. I accept they are frowned upon, by some, but still readily available. On another note, why cant you just buy normal n gauge points now, and tinker later.
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Old 09-05-2018, 10:54 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yelrow View Post
Well now, Steve, just shows we can learn new things, every day. There were 14 points, in my layout, ALL, with Springy things, so have 27, ish, somewhere, safe. I accept they are frowned upon, by some, but still readily available. On another note, why cant you just buy normal n gauge points now, and tinker later.
I am worried about slow speed running.
I don't want to just cannonball my locos across points and round the track, so that's one reason I am thinking electrofrog.
If I do the droppers first as last it saves messing later that's all I am thinking about. Rather than mess scenery when I so eventually go dcc to sort points out, easier to do that now I think.

I am just confused by if I am able to effectively isolate a siding for storing a loco on whilst another is running, prefer not to remove it from the track if i can help it.

Would it be better to just isolate a siding and wire it so I can put power to it when I need to move a loco out of it?
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Old 09-05-2018, 11:05 AM   #13
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If you go with DC to start with and fit isolating switches to the sidings all you have to do when you go to DCC is throw all the switches to ‘on’.
On my N layout I used insulfrog points exclusively and have no slow running issues at all. I went with those as that’s what I understood from my childhood. With the last few years of layout experience, if I were starting a new layout now, I would go straight to DCC with electrofrogs and control frog polarity with the Gaugemaster autofrog module - that’s what I did when I started my OO layout a couple of years ago.
Note, the autofrog module is not suitable for DC operation.
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Old 09-05-2018, 11:24 AM   #14
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I have 12 sidings all switched as steve mentioned, (DC). There is No way, i would go DCC, on N and OO, as cost would be prohibitive. If, a lot younger, and starting from new, then i would go for one or the other, probably, 00, as much cheaper, in my view. I find n locos, fiddly, but not as much as my Z gauge ones, which are delightful. In my case, i had both gauges, already, and only moved into partial DCC, 00, when medically precluded from climbing stairs. Once recovered, everything became integrated.
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Old 09-05-2018, 08:21 PM   #15
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Now my mind is stuck between code 80 and code 55.

Other than finer scale are there any advantages of using code 55 over code 80?

I am mainly seeing some different pre-made point options and a slightly higher price.
I could be wrong.


Thanks for the advice on isolated sidings, I will completely isolate them with IRJ and then wire them up with an isolating switch so then I can have no random loco's come onto the main track whilst I am running trains.
Admittedly I wont have that many loco's but I will eventually.

Just a final thing, should I just buy some track and a loco so I can have something running? With it in mind that I will use the track on the final layout.
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Old 11-05-2018, 08:06 AM   #16
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Is £50 for 5 Graham farish n gauge mk1 maroon br coaches good
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Old 31-05-2018, 12:13 PM   #17
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I am like you.
New!
First layout and all.....
I went with C55 Peco.
It actually worked out ok even for a newbie.
Hereford models was the best price I found at the time.
(Sorry it’s brief tea break is not infinite)

I had the same dilemma with a future dcc upgrade (still no where near)

Trust me, these guys will help!
I preferred the look of the c55 it appears slightly less clunky but really there isn’t much in it at all.
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Old 31-05-2018, 12:18 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AviatorAtHeart View Post
I am like you.
New!
First layout and all.....
I went with C55 Peco.
It actually worked out ok even for a newbie.
Hereford models was the best price I found at the time.
(Sorry itís brief tea break is not infinite)

I had the same dilemma with a future dcc upgrade (still no where near)

Trust me, these guys will help!
I preferred the look of the c55 it appears slightly less clunky but really there isnít much in it at all.
Tea breaks are never long enough in my opinion.

I did go with code 55 and electrofrog in the end.
I have got a 2nd radius testing track all flexi and it was awesome to use.
Hopefully by the end of the year or early next year I intend to go DCC, spread the cost out a little through the next 6 months or so.

I will begin construction on my N layout in a few weeks, I have the plan just need to get it bought, I'm doing a two loop with sidings inside and out with a small station, To bring costs down I am going to build 1 loop first and then the 2nd at a later date. Spread the cost of the points out, damn those things are expensive.
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Old 31-05-2018, 01:57 PM   #19
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Default DC v DCC

For starters in the hobby, the majority advice is go DCC from the word go. Most of the DC operators I know would agree with that. What stops most DC operators now from converting is the prohibitive cost of chipping a large stock of locos which even as a starter you can soon find yourself in that position. Unfortunately there is no real half way house it is either one or the other. I know some people try to achieve that by having a layout partially DCC and partially DC, this is fraught with danger and can result in expensive controllers being damaged. In your position as I was a few years back I would do what I did and opt for DCC even if it means you start with a modest amount of kit.

When it comes to DCCing N gauge you are a bit limited on the decoders you can use with most "DCC ready" stock only taking 6 pin 2 function decoders. As far as I know none of the small diesel shunters are DCC ready. I have heard of people who have managed it but it is akin to micro surgery.

Richard
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Old 31-05-2018, 02:08 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tricky Dicky View Post
For starters in the hobby, the majority advice is go DCC from the word go. Most of the DC operators I know would agree with that. What stops most DC operators now from converting is the prohibitive cost of chipping a large stock of locos which even as a starter you can soon find yourself in that position. Unfortunately there is no real half way house it is either one or the other. I know some people try to achieve that by having a layout partially DCC and partially DC, this is fraught with danger and can result in expensive controllers being damaged. In your position as I was a few years back I would do what I did and opt for DCC even if it means you start with a modest amount of kit.

When it comes to DCCing N gauge you are a bit limited on the decoders you can use with most "DCC ready" stock only taking 6 pin 2 function decoders. As far as I know none of the small diesel shunters are DCC ready. I have heard of people who have managed it but it is akin to micro surgery.

Richard
I've been discussing this on an N gauge forum and there are ways to do it very easily and cheaper than going DCC right now.

Yeah I know the decoders are limited based on their size but going forward more and more sound ready locos are being released, GF are doing a good job in that area and some 3rd party companies are offering the fitting service and adding sugar cube speakers as well, costly but if thats the route it takes right now its the way it goes.

I only have 1 N gauge loco as it is so chipping a large collection is a moot point for me.
I have seen the dcc compatible N gauge shunter diesels be chipped fairly easilly by amateurs, I am below that level so when I get a class 03/04 (still not sure which one) I intend to get it professionally chipped as it is only compatible not ready.
My 4MT 2-6-4 is dcc ready and takes as you said a 6 pin decoder easilly as its slide body off slot it in and away we go.

I am setting my layout up ready for dcc but building it in stages, I will isolate the sidings seperatly so I can keep it wired for dcc without having any loco run away out of a siding as its all live, once I move to dcc I will just remove the isolating switch and connect those wires together and the entire layout will be live.
I say I'll be going dcc by the end of the year, I do not know it may take me until 2020 to go dcc but the way I am setting it up it should be a simple enough swap as I am wiring layout with bus wires from day one.

Its a long process of even making the layout, as it stands I am finishing up my 00 shunting layout to then sell it on and fund the N gauge layout.

Thanks for the advice.
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