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Old 08-05-2018, 09:49 AM   #11
Walkingthedog
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Thatís fair enough Iím not disputing this particular loco has a problem. Is the front bogie the only problem?
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Old 08-05-2018, 10:01 AM   #12
Steve M
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I had a similar issue with one of my locos. It turned out that it didn’t like the slightly tighter radius of Setrack points. Once I changed it to Streamline, to match all the others on the layout, it was completely fine.
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Old 08-05-2018, 10:12 AM   #13
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I see that the bogie has a similar fitting to the Castle. I remember that used to try and treat a diamond crossing as points and turn right. That was cured by altering the back to back. I like the Dapol 9F cure with the centring spring.
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Old 08-05-2018, 10:15 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve M View Post
I had a similar issue with one of my locos. It turned out that it didnít like the slightly tighter radius of Setrack points. Once I changed it to Streamline, to match all the others on the layout, it was completely fine.
This is what I think causes the majority of derailing problems. Since Iíve changed to 98% streamline points Iíve had no problems with derailing at all.
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Old 08-05-2018, 10:26 AM   #15
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I only use set track points in sidings, they take up less room and locos only cross them at a crawl.
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Old 08-05-2018, 10:47 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Walkingthedog View Post
That’s fair enough I’m not disputing this particular loco has a problem. Is the front bogie the only problem?

It seems to be the only issue. The very unusual pivoting arrangement allows free movement about an arc on both sides of the truck, rather than pivoting about a single point. I have seen a couple of references to a centering spring and I think this might help the truck to realign itself when it comes off the corners. The track is all Peco Code 100 flexitrack and the points are all medium radius Peco Streamline.

Could someone please give me a brief idea of how you go about adjusting the back to back measurement of pressed on manufactured wheels. I am still a bit confused by this as it does seem to appear very frequently on Railway Modelling forums so it is obviously an important issue yet I can't help but think that the real measurement should be from the face as the back to back measurement does not take flange thickness into consideration.

Thanks for the help gents.

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Old 08-05-2018, 10:54 AM   #17
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The wheels on wagons and bogies are a tight slide fit on the axles. The can be moved by twisting the wheels. A back to back gauge is definitely something we should all have.

A link.

https://www.petersspares.com/dcc-con...gauge-145mm.ir


Here is another type, I have both.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/One-OO-ga...wAAOSwRbtaKmb~
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Old 08-05-2018, 11:06 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Walkingthedog View Post
The wheels on wagons and bogies are a tight slide fit on the axles. The can be moved by twisting the wheels. A back to back gauge is definitely something we should all have.

A link.

https://www.petersspares.com/dcc-con...gauge-145mm.ir


Here is another type, I have both.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/One-OO-ga...wAAOSwRbtaKmb~

Perfect many thanks Brian, I'll give that a go.
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Old 08-05-2018, 11:22 AM   #19
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Hope it makes a difference.
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Old 08-05-2018, 12:44 PM   #20
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@BB........Just checked my L1 which is still in new condition and find that the front pony truck is very loose and easily rattles from side to side, as yours is s/h is there any dirt preventing this looseness?......also regarding back to back measure, mine shows 14.26 for the pony truck wheels and 14.42 for the drivers.........have run mine at speed over Hornby points with no derailing......HB
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