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Old 07-05-2018, 05:03 PM   #31
Walkingthedog
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There doesn’t need to be a brass strip rubbing the back of the cog wheels if the wheels are electrically connected to the axles and central brass strip. The power to the other brush should come from the loco. The tender should not work on its own, only when connected to the loco.
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Old 07-05-2018, 05:16 PM   #32
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OK I've solved it. Man that was hard work.

The mistake I was making was that when I checked for continuity between the axle and cog wheel rim it was doing it through the motor coils from one pick up to the other...doh!

So in fact BOTH wheels are insulated from the axles and the negative supply is coming from the loco via the loco-tender link to the underneath brass pick up.

Which begs the question WHY does that underneath brass strip have seemingly unnecessary contacts with the axles on the tender. I was making the assumption that they were getting power from somewhere and it looks like they aren't. GRRRRR
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Old 07-05-2018, 05:20 PM   #33
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I think the tender has been modified. As long as it works that is OK. One of the wheels still need a tyre.
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Old 07-05-2018, 06:10 PM   #34
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It maybe the case that it is to add stability to the outer wheels. It could be that without it there may be vibration? It could also just be a case that the drive was made to fit directly to a four wheel diesel or something like that which may need all wheels to have electrical pick up. These motors were only made in a few different forms for many different steam and diesel locomotives both for the British and European markets, all using the same armatures and surrounds, just in different housings according to the needs. Where possible it made sense to adapt a common design, not just for the manufacture of the locos, but also due to help customers obtain spares.
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Old 08-05-2018, 09:43 PM   #35
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Well after all those electrical shenanigans, I chucked some paint on the body and have done a pinstriping session tonight.

Anyone else think the striping is a bit too thick?

Oh and its gonna have a name change too, as a Yorkshireman it will have to be King Richard III

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Old 08-05-2018, 09:56 PM   #36
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Yes the gap beween the white stripes is a trifle large. The lining on the cab side shouldn’t be square, the lower front corner needs to be a larger radius.

Have a look at my picture on page 1.
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Old 08-05-2018, 10:13 PM   #37
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These pinstripes are home made and I'm a bit restricted as to what I can do so they will have to stay like it.
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Old 08-05-2018, 10:27 PM   #38
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In that case they’ll do. Have you got a copper cap for the chimney?
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Old 08-05-2018, 11:40 PM   #39
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I have the original chimney which will be attacked with copper Alclad. Still haven't worked out how to mask off the middle dome thing
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Old 11-05-2018, 09:11 PM   #40
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Two pin striping sessions later. Just waiting for nameplates to come then I'll do the final varnishing sessions. Lights a bit harsh in my kitchen, better pics to follow.

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