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Old 08-04-2018, 02:40 PM   #11
Walkingthedog
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It wasn’t so much the dirt MG, the boiler cladding panels changed colour as it got hot. Didn’t seem to affect A4's so much.
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Old 08-04-2018, 04:07 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Footplate1947 View Post
That part clips on top of chassis just ahead of the cylinders. There are bright metal parts sticking out of front of cylinders (valve rods) and they sit in the flat ends of the valve linkage in front of cylinders.
REF This part = valve linkage.
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Here’s my blue one.
Yes I like that colour
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Old 07-05-2018, 01:11 PM   #13
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OK next question, I'm making on with this today, the bodies are washed and primed and waiting for paint. The motor has been overhauled and runs very nicely...HOWEVER...

Look at these pics. If I put a croc clip from my test transformer onto point A and then the other at point B it runs beautifully.

If I then move my croc clip to point C (the axle) it runs

Point D (the copper strip underneath) it runs

Point E (the axle stub) it runs.

Point F the wheel rim it does NOT run. A multimeter is telling me there's no continuity between wheel rim and axle. How can this be? There is continuity between different parts of the wheel rim. Do I have a wheel with a plastic middle bit?? (Notwithstanding the fact that it was sold to me as a runner!)

Looking carefully at the wheels you might notice that they have counterweights and holes where a con rod may have once been placed. Unlikely on a tender? Are they the wrong wheels?



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Old 07-05-2018, 01:30 PM   #14
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That’s because the wheel rim is insulated from the axle. It also has a tyre on it. The wheel on the other axle on the same side as F should also be insulated and is missing a tyre you can see it has a groove to take one. On that loco the power to the motor was from one side of the tender and the other side on the loco. Some picked up from both sides of the loco but always only one side of the tender.

Hope I’ve not given you duff gen, it’s been a long time since I’ve owned one.
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Old 07-05-2018, 02:04 PM   #15
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Why then does it have a pickup??

The wheels with the gears on are insulated from the axle by a plastic gear wheel and have their own pick ups Hornby style on the backs of the wheels.

The visible pick up D is on the axles and thus should be for the other side wheels or else whats the point in having it?
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Old 07-05-2018, 02:12 PM   #16
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OK. Does it look like the pickups on the cogged wheels have been added by somebody. Therefore the other wheels should not be insulated and yes they are the wrong ones if the have connecting rod holes. Also wheels that pick up power shouldn’t have tyres as that defeats the object. So you need to replace the uncogged wheels with uninsulated non tyred wheels. Might be easier to obtain new complete wheel sets.
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Old 07-05-2018, 02:36 PM   #17
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The wheels to have an origional look to them as Lima wheels did tend to look a copper colour. I sold myLima king years ago so is difficult to remember.
I know when I scratchbuild, a springy wire can come in useful above axles to stabilise the wheels. This case it looks like it is for extra pick ups? It could be a case that the same drive mechanism is used in a different model that does need to have it wired up?
It could also be a case that though the tender has all pickups in position, that it collects its current from both sides of the loco wheels? Just a thought.
What you are saying is that the tender wheels seem to be isolated from their axles on both sides? New wheel sets look a good idea until one comes to the drive cogs on the wheels. These need to be the correct size and have the correct number of teeth etc, so it means that to change wheels one has to know that the new wheels are going to work, hence why I think it best to work with the wheels you already have.
I believe the pickups on the cog side to be standard Lima issue as I have a similar design on other Lima drive mechanisms.
Be aware that the traction tyre itself (There is one missing on your model) can't conduct electricity. Just checking incase you put the test meter on the tyre itself! It has been known. It could be that the current path goes to the outer axles and through the frame so the centre wheels (Missing on your pictures) can conduct current? It seems a long path to take but could be possible.

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Old 07-05-2018, 02:40 PM   #18
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There is also a pick up on the loco wheels that appears to run back to the tender via the coupling but looks a bit iffy to me. Not tried it yet.

This is the pickup for the geared/insulated wheels. The one underneath picks up off the axles.


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Old 07-05-2018, 02:53 PM   #19
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The fixing points for this pick up. They are plastic? Can't quite see from the photo. Just checking it is an origional pickup or not.
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Old 07-05-2018, 02:54 PM   #20
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They appear to be heat swaged plastic

And there are definite wires from each pick up to a separate side of the motor, not the same side

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