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Flashbang 26-04-2012 08:34 PM

Soldering - Electrical connections
As this question gets asked many times, I though I'd put a posting on the forum explaining the technique that I was trained to use and have been using for around 45 or so years now!

The basics of soldering are:- A soldering iron of suitable wattage size and tip for the work being undertaken fitted with a clean bit that’s is first class condition, 60/40 lead content Rosin cored solder and clean connections. Lets make a start…. For everyday soldering a minimum 25 watt iron with a small to medium sized bit is all that’s required. Larger bits sizes irons have their place, but are not always needed for most electrical joints.

To make a good quality soldered joint, heat the iron for at least five minutes. Don’t rush, the irons tip must be up to full temperature. Have to hand a damp soldering iron's tip cleaning sponge pad. If you own a soldering iron stand its likely it came with a sponge. If not, then cut a piece of ordinary non synthetic sponge and use that. Remember to keep the sponge damp.
Once the iron is hot, wipe the tip onto the sponge to remove all previous oxidisation and old solder residue. Assuming the tip is in a good condition and it must be! Apply a little of the rosin cored solder to the tip.

On electrical joints never use solid stick type solder nor most paste or liquid types of flux, as these all contain a mild acid which over a long period of time causes high resistance problems within the soldered joint. Solid solders and liquid fluxes are normally the reserve of the solid sheet metal soldering jobs – Loco building, plumbing etc.
If you must use flux for electrical joints in addition to what is inbuilt in the rosin cored solder, then ONLY EVER use a special flux designed for electrical soldered joints. It does not contain any harmful acids that would need washing away with water.

For jointing two or more wires together….With the irons tip coated in liquid solder (wetted) and having previously dry assembled the joint - It must be cleaned too, use a fibre glass pencil or scrape the surfaces of both components clean, unless its freshly stripped wire where the sheathing keeps the surface of the wire nice and clean. Place the wetted irons tip directly onto the connection. Wait a few seconds for the heat of the tip to transfer into the wires and then apply a little more rosin corded solder onto the heated joint, not onto the irons tip. You should see the solder start to melt and flow into and around the joint. Once sufficient solder has been applied to coat the whole joint remove both the iron and corded solder. NOW DO NOT TOUCH or MOVE the joint. Wait at least 10 seconds after removing the heat to allow the joint to cool and the solder to set. What you should end up with is a solid, clean joint. Sometimes the PVC sheath on the wire/s being soldered will shrink back a little. This is a nuisance at times and is due to a) The wires PVC sheathing having a low temperature range or b) Too much heat applied to the joint for too long a period of time.

Finally, before you go onto solder another joint or you have completely finished and before you disconnect the iron, clean the tip again on the damp sponge. You will get a many years of use from a soldering iron if you keep its tip clean!

Soldering wires to the bottom or outside of the rail is the same principle, but here I find pre tinning both the end of the wire and the pre cleaned place on the rail where the wire is to connect to be the best method. Pre clean the rail with the aid of a fibre pencil or other means - file etc. Tin with a little solder, both the place on the rail and the wires end. To Tin, apply a small amount of solder to the clean irons tip, then touch the iron onto the area to be tinned. Heat/Solder will flow from the tip onto the area. This should only take a few seconds, keep the irons tip in place and feed some of the cored solder into the area. Remove iron and wipe the tip on the damp sponge. Once every item has been tinned, place the stripped wire end, which if necessary has been pre bent to a small ‘L’ shape, up to the solder on the rail. Apply a little solder to the irons tip and place the iron on top of the wire and lightly press down towards the rail. The hot solder on the irons tip will cause both the wires solder and the rails solder to melt into one. If necessary apply a little more cored solder onto the wire with the iron still in place should there not be enough on the rail to make a solid connection. Carefully remove the iron and ensure the wire maintains in contact with the rail and doesn’t move, waiting for 5 to 10 seconds to allow the soldered joint to cool. The use of a small screwdriver blade or even tweezers to hold the wire in place until the solder solidifies and prevent your fingers burning is an option I often use.

The use of crocodile clips or any similar sprung clamps fixed onto the rails just either side of the soldering work area are advisable, as these act as ‘mini heat shunts’ and help prevent the rail being overheated away from the soldering area which can, if the heat is allowed to be transmitted along the rail, subsequently causing the plastic sleeper fixings to melt.

Don’t forget to wipe the tip on the damp sponge after finishing all the work and before turning off the iron.

One thing that I have found for the beginner to soldering, is to obtain a spare scrap piece of track and some pieces of wire and practise, practice and practice until you feel comfortable and at ease with soldering.

alan stonebridge 26-04-2012 10:18 PM

Thanks for that very clear explanation.

I`ve got some copper banding, recommended by ZTC as a bus wire, would you solder wires to that in the same way ?

How would you fasten the banding to the wooden framework beneath the baseboards ?


clancy 27-04-2012 05:03 PM

thanks for that flashbang i posted i needed lessons after reading your item i don't need to

Flashbang 27-04-2012 05:34 PM


Originally Posted by alan stonebridge (Post 10133)
Thanks for that very clear explanation.

I`ve got some copper banding, recommended by ZTC as a bus wire, would you solder wires to that in the same way ?

How would you fasten the banding to the wooden framework beneath the baseboards ?


Hi Alan
Most copper tape (As used by the dolls house fraternity) is self adhesive! But to prevent the wood sucking the the adhesive from the tape, I would coat the wood with a sealant prior to fixing the tape - PVA glue, paint, varnish etc. Allow the coating to thoroughly dry then apply the tape. Ensure there is a clear gap between two tapes. Ideally at least 5mm.

As for soldering to the tape. As always, the area of tape to be soldered needs to be cleaned. Use a fibre brush to do the job, but rubbing the tape with some fine grade Glass paper or Emery cloth would do the same. Then use a hot pre wetted with solder soldering iron, rosen cored lead content solder and pre tin the copper tape and the wire end and only then solder the two together.

natmar 01-05-2013 10:03 PM

even after following the above i am struggling. i am using 188 degree resin core solder a 25w iron(new) fibre glass pencil,SMP track and single core dropper wire.
i just can not get the solder to flow and fix the wire to the under side of the track. i can not even tin the track or wire. i must be doing something wrong or a piece of kit is not suitable. i am following all of the above to the letter.
can anyone help. i am running out of practice track.

Flashbang 02-05-2013 10:13 AM

Is the rail Nickel Silver or steel? NS rail will solder easier.

Your iron must be allowed to reach full operating temperature, so switch it on and wait at least five minutes. Wipe the tip onto a damp sponge and apply solder to the tip (Coating the tip or wetting it) IMPORTANT.... Repeat the wipe and re wetting with fresh solder every time you go to solder anything and also between each soldering operation.

Having scrub cleaned the rail area to be soldered with the fibre pencil, place the soldering irons tip onto the rail with a firm but light pressure. Wait for a couple of seconds or so for the heat to transfer into the rail and then feed a little of the solder into the now heated rail right next to the irons tip. You should see the solder flow easily onto the rail, immediately remove the iron.

Modern solder of the no lead content (lead free) type is harder to use and can at times fail to produce a good joint. I recommend only using 60/40 lead content rosin cored solder. For rail soldering and most electrical work I use 0.7mm dia. solder.

Sorry I haven't any idea what your 188 degree solder is - lead free or lead content? Is this a Carrs product?

When using lead content solder (60/40 etc) ensure you throughly wash your hands after completing the soldering work.

If your still having problems use some flux sold specifically for electrical soldering work (Not plumbers flux etc) This is for example like Carrs Orange label or flux under the generic name of reflow flux.

Most failures for solder to take are due to the area not being heated sufficiently or being of a poor soldering metal like stainless steel which Hornby rail joiners (fishplates) are made form or the area to be soldered isn't fully cleaned.

Good luck and keep practicing.

natmar 02-05-2013 08:04 PM

i will report back with the results

alfaz-di-pi 02-05-2013 09:19 PM

Hi Alan I have used the copper tape, and I find it very easy to solder to.

Flashbang 03-05-2013 09:57 AM

Hi Albert
You dont normally solder copper tape to the rails, which is what natmar is having problems with.

alfaz-di-pi 03-05-2013 08:33 PM

Sorry Flashbang, perhaps I should have explained further, I did not solder the tape to the rails, I soldered te dropper wires to the tape. I think that this was what Allan mentioned.

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